TOPIC:

Here's the photos of the progress so far.

Nothing like a fresh coat of paint. It doesn't look bad at all.

looking good bud.

They were not painted from the factory.

For cheaps, what about using a longer spring in front end? Like out of another model/heavier cruiser.
I've also used a stack of coins to add preload to each leg...you can add as many as you can then subtract one or two at a time until it starts to wallow....or stops bouncing!! The preload, combined with some nice new oil would make forks better/good enough to cut laps. I did this on my bike years ago...from memory 12.5 weight fork oil was best. I used to grind the alt/points cases so musn't of been too afraid of the handling.

Can you add air caps in your class? You cannot compress air.
Only change one thing at a time.
G.

That's a good thought, but Mark got me a bit paranoid about bottoming out the forks under strong braking. I'm going to spring for the RaceTech springs for the front forks and go through them for any other possible issues. So far everything has been in crap condition...

I just finished putting in new wheel bearings and steering stem bearings from All Balls Racing.

Just got a nice winfall from the new job too, so I can start ordering my motor parts. Another one of those "let's help Jeff @ Z1E pay the bills" days coming up shortly here...

turboguzzi wrote:

DoubleDub wrote: I have just about everything planned out except the compression modifications as I'll have to do the measurements once everything is back together to determine how much I need to take everything down. At this point I'm planning on having the head and block surfaced to square them up and reduce the clearances to where I want them. I will likely be running on race gas so I'm hoping to get the compression over 11:1 if possible with the stock pistons to start with.

11:1 or even more should be doable with stock pisotns, you'd be looking at removing something like 1.6mm off the block. Pistons are going to stick out quite a bit so you should machine a slight taper, like 15 degs around the edge so they dont touch the head. checking piston to valve clearance is recommended too.

TG - I'd love to have a discussion with you on this.

DoubleDub wrote:

turboguzzi wrote:

DoubleDub wrote: I have just about everything planned out except the compression modifications as I'll have to do the measurements once everything is back together to determine how much I need to take everything down. At this point I'm planning on having the head and block surfaced to square them up and reduce the clearances to where I want them. I will likely be running on race gas so I'm hoping to get the compression over 11:1 if possible with the stock pistons to start with.

11:1 or even more should be doable with stock pisotns, you'd be looking at removing something like 1.6mm off the block. Pistons are going to stick out quite a bit so you should machine a slight taper, like 15 degs around the edge so they dont touch the head. checking piston to valve clearance is recommended too.

TG - I'd love to have a discussion with you on this.

Put the cylinder on the motor with pistons installed then see how far down the hole the highest piston is sitting,use that as your referance point for figuring how much to remove.
If you end up with bigger valves and big hairy cams make sure you have plenty of piston/valve clearance.
Im not sure how you guys figure what size of cams to run for road course bikes,I suppose it would have to do with the length of straight aways youll be running and gearing.
Just remember it does no good to give up lowerv end coming out of the corners if it takes the whole straight away to get it back.

Thanks Jim. Right now I'll be running the smaller gpz750 cams (.320 lift?). Racing cams will have be later on. I have a tough chore as my local track is huge compared to the other tracks I will be running at and will have to balance the straight speed vs corner speed. I'm definitely a novice in all aspects here...this is one giant learning process.

Id suggest trying for a reliable engine combo for right now and concentrate on your chassis setup and learning to get it around track safely for now,as long as you have a good solid bottem end you can always add hp as you grow into it.

So most of the fun bits came in the mail this week. Fast shipping and good prices from Z1E as usual...