Building a GPZ1150 from a CSR1000

Well guys here is my delema. Cams are hitting at points indicated in red.

And also here.

I just hate useing a Dye Grinder on this because it looks so ugly and unproffesional. I guess i will haveto mount this to the Bridgeport and take my time to do it right and neet.

i know u will do a fine job otto. but the die grinder is the usual, quickest, tool of choise, and no 1 will see it my freind. but being the perfectionist that u are , im sure we will see bautifully machined swirl marks ,the next post. no 1 can stop that little voice in your head that says i can do better.go to it man. what lift are the cams?
i thought u said, way back, that u would lose 2.4 or 2.5? compression points with the gpz head on a kz piston. that would give u 11:1 wouldnt it? or did i get that wrong??

This is what is going on--- I am using KZ Pistons in a J motor with a GPZ head with 12.5:1 Venolia pistons. This means I will loose something with the combustion chamber shape and something with the crown height on the piston. I figure about 2.5 to 3 points total. I could deck the cylinders and regain about ¾ of a point if I so desired. I think that 9.5:1 or 10:1 is more than enough compression for the street. I normally run 100 octane aviation leaded gas anyways with Butyl Alcohol and Toluene added anyways, for a total of about 110 octane. This keeps my motor much cleaner on the inside and is not much more expensive than premium pump gas.
I might just bite the bullet and cringe a little and just use the dye grinder (YUCK) Just the thought of it makes me cringe. I also think that I will keep the size down to 1132cc this should make the motor quite a bit more street able especially in the hot Chicago summers. After that I will build a totally separate spare engine and bring that to 1200+.

Here is a published article from "Cavanaugh Racing Heads" which is very good. I consider Larry one of the for-most experts on Kawasaki Heads. "Read and Heed"



How important is an engine's breathing capability?
Below is a dyno simulation showing 2 different engine sizes, 1075 and 1327cc.
One 1075 and the 1327 both have stock KZ cylinderheads and identical cams.

The other 1075 has identical components but with 88CFM @10". That's basically a stock GPz 1100 head with a little clean up or a STAGE 1 KZ Ported Head.

Actual HP and Torque numbers are simulations values. As such, torque numbers tend to run on the optimistic side. In any event, the end result is still a good for trend comparison purposes.

The trend for the end result shows the comparative differences in the way the power band changes, where the peak power differences occur and what happens after the Peak HP RPM is reached.

Effectively, the difference between allowing the smaller engine to breathe with a good cylinderhead vs holding the larger engine back with a stock cylinderhead are very clear in terms of peak HP and RPM.

The big bore 1327 with stock head, will deliver a nice increase in available power up to a point, then taper off quickly where as the smaller 1075 engine with good breathing capacity will produce more peak power and hold on longer.

Otakar,
Very cool post. Thanks!
-KR

Do u sell the gauge cluster you have pictured? How much
trouble to put on my CSR. Also what did you do about the
original seat?

I never considered building and selling the gauges.. But I guess I could as long as I find the components for them. The seat has been sold already along with the handle bars. all the other parts I still have. If you back page in this thread I have listed most of the parts i have plus some I forgot about.

Well Gentlemen it is about that time of year, for those of us who do not have the luxury of living in nice year-round weather to pull out the rides. I finally went yesterday and transferred the title and registered this bike so I can put it on the road. It will run with a semi-stock engine for the mean time, but I plan on doing some work on it this weekend. I will post some more pictures on Sunday.
I have also decided on not using the Die-grinder on the cam-lobe-pockets, but to make a CNC program to cut them. You know what they say, "ugly on the inside is worse than ugly on the outside. :whistle:

Otto

Well Guys;
I've done a lot of work on the bike in the last week. I have also taken lots of pictures which I will be posting over the next couple of days. Here is what I will be posting;
1) The mounting of a tail section on a bike which did not have one before.
2) New custom built LED tail light (Not just a pair of LED bulbs)
3) The mounting of a hinge on a clip on seat
4) Mounting a custom chain guard.
5) Mounting a set of Mikuni BS-36VM carbs from a 83 Suzuki 1150
6) New 2.2Ohm coils with custom cut solid core cables.
and more

I was wondering where you'd gone! Can't wait for the pics and more of your progress reports. Good stuff.

Hey Otakar how did you do the tail conversion I would like to do the same with my bike. I have a tail piece but I dont know if its the right one. Give me some insight to how you did it.