TOPIC:

The 1015 was great but the 1075 made the engine come ALIVE. 
A little clean up porting made a difference too. 
Steve

SWest wrote:

The 1015 was great but the 1075 made the engine come ALIVE. 

A little clean up porting made a difference too. 

Steve





 

This head rode 11.5K miles since Nov. 2021.  New valve seals were installed then.





Above images by Schumann Motor Works




I should run this one with the Wiseco's

Stock 18mm crank:








Measurements:
 

Looks like my 903 crank. The KZ 1000's were a lot heavier. 
Steve
 

More weight = more inertia!      

Peering into the gear case



...notice anything different?







Do these shift forks exhibit normal wear for a forty yo, 27k mile engine?

daveo wrote:

More weight = more inertia!      

Peering into the gear case

...notice anything different?

Do these shift forks exhibit normal wear for a forty yo, 27k mile engine?

And it takes longer to spin up. 

 They did it to smooth out the engine. 



 

The forks look fine. 
Steve

SWest wrote:

daveo wrote:

More weight = more inertia!      

Peering into the gear case

...notice anything different?

Do these shift forks exhibit normal wear for a forty yo, 27k mile engine?

 

And it takes longer to spin up. 

 They did it to smooth out the engine. 

The forks look fine. 
Steve

 

If there is a way to drop the quote onto this line with my Android Samsung cell phone, I can't figure it out...it does work with my laptop.




About the shift forks, I see what looks like shiny metal from wear ONLY at a couple contact edges.  Seems like there should be more of that appearance of wear on the silvery flat areas as well. 

Please correct me if I'm mistaken, but there appears to be very little wear at all.  If that is normal for the engine's miles and age, then I'll be even more amazed about these Kawasaki motors than I was before opening this one up.



 

I've seen them worn all along the surface area and still work as they should. Take a close look at the shifting dogs. Also is the fork rail hollow or solid. Mine was hollow so I think it was flexing and wore out 2nd gear. The trans. I just installed came with a solid one. So far so good. APE use to sell hardened ones but they were pricy. 
Steve 

SWest wrote:

I've seen them worn all along the surface area and still work as they should. Take a close look at the shifting dogs. Also is the fork rail hollow or solid. Mine was hollow so I think it was flexing and wore out 2nd gear. The trans. I just installed came with a solid one. So far so good. APE use to sell hardened ones but they were pricy. 

Steve 




 

Nice old solid rods they be...aargh. 



Glad I went in.  It's good going in, and I like what I am finding.  And when I come out in the Spring, I may have an untamed raging beast between my legs.

Man there's a lot of O-rings, gaskets, and seals in this motor...best replace them with brand spank'n new ones.

 

Like I always said, "It's good to know what you have going on between your legs." 
Steve

SWest wrote:

Like I always said, "It's good to know what you have going on between your legs." 

Steve


 

I was sort of afraid to "crack" the thing open, but then came that moment it all made sense, as Wookie58 said.  Actually, it was instantaneous...my wrenches were ready to fly, and they sure did!


                                                                                               

If you check in the engine section of the maintenance manual you will find a wear spec for the shift forks.