TOPIC:

SWest wrote:

He said it came off a running bike. 

Steve

 

 

No lie!  Musta ran like sh*t tho

When splitting J-motor cases, can the engine be flipped over and stay upright until reassembly, once the bottom bolts have been removed?



I suppose the oil pan has to be removed in order to access the crank cap bolts...

If it's like the early motors you have to be sure all the m6 bolts are out top and bottom. On the early motors there are two threaded holes to be used to pry the cases apart. If one bolt is missed you'll hear that dreaded CRACK and the case will be ruined. So the answer is yes but be CAREFUL. 
Steve 

SWest wrote:

He said it came off a running bike. 

 

There is "running" and then there is "running" 

SWest wrote:

If it's like the early motors you have to be sure all the m6 bolts are out top and bottom. On the early motors there are two threaded holes to be used to pry the cases apart. If one bolt is missed you'll hear that dreaded CRACK and the case will be ruined. So the answer is yes but be CAREFUL. 

Steve 
 

Yes, I've heard of that nasty crack to be avoided at ALL costs.
Will consult my handy old FSM, and anticipate some great advice for safe and effective crank extraction before the first bolt snaps loose...in forty years that is.

Still deliberating since I don't expect to race with the motor, and someone else may want it for that purpose.  Once installed tho, those thoughts will be over.
Besides, a beautiful crank is already in there, and I can leave the factory assembly alone to use it.

Snapped one loose a little, and promptly snugged it back down...just had to see what it felt like.  Besides, that welded crank is like, begging me



While I'm thinking about it, what gasket material is normally used for case assembly?

I have this Dynatex stuff...

That will work but I used YAMA BOND. 
Steve

Well, we're all half in now.  Woohoo! 

I thought you were going in, I see you dove in.   How big are you boring it out to? 
Steve

SWest wrote:

I thought you were going in, I see you dove in. 

 How big are you boring it out to? 

Steve

 

75mm. Wiseco K1172.  Cylinder block will ship to MRE for proper boring and piston/ring fitting.

The old 3K mile ebay crank now has a permanent dust-free place to hang out.  Rotation feels smooth and effortless.
It was $212 well-spent.   

 

Daveo, is 1172 a bore in for the 1100 block?

daveo wrote:

SWest wrote:

I thought you were going in, I see you dove in. 

 How big are you boring it out to? 

Steve


 

75mm. Wiseco K1172.  Cylinder block will ship to MRE for proper boring and piston/ring fitting.

The old 3K mile ebay crank now has a permanent dust-free place to hang out.  Rotation feels smooth and effortless.
It was $212 well-spent.   


 

You know it makes sense