Rear Brake/Hub grinding sound.

I ordered a coupler sleeve, and it looks like everything should be here by this weekend(I hope)

And hopefully this all fixes my issues, then its time to make her not so ugly

I started cleaning, polishing and painting Bossie a year before I had the money to get her running. Top to bottom/stem to stern, all new parts. Well worth it.
Steve







Insides of course.

My bearings should be here today, and the other stuff by the weekend.

What are you guys using for bearing grease, during install, and also on the rear axle and stuff?

Hey guess, Im installing my rear wheel bearing kit today, and I'm running into an issue.

I got the bearing that goes into the wheel couple(#8 in photo) installed with ease, and the circlip also, no issues.

Well, I went to install the bearing on the brake drum side of the rear wheel, and it was going in easy, and then just stopped. The bearing is too thick to go down all the way, and sticks out of the hub a little.

I verified that they sent me the correct part number, and everything seems correct. So I'm confused. The two bearings on the rear wheel should be the same part/part number(and they are) but there just isn't enough room to get the bearing seated all the way, and have room for the cir clip on that side. I'm stumped.

Ignore my last, I'm a dummy. I just went and took another look, and found this:

I piece from the old bearing race, I guess it split in half, and was stuck in there from when I took out the old bearing I suppose. It broke clean enough that I thought it was part of the hub haha.

Oh well, funny easy fix. Back to work.

Well, if you still have the old bearings you removed, you can check the dust shield for their bearing number...to see if possibly you got a set of bearings for a different version like for a wheel with a rear disc instead of drum?

Alternatively, just measure the wheel's receiver and compare to the new bearings. Seems odd but I can only assume the new ones are incorrect size if they're seated fully and yet protrude too far to install the snap ring. It's frustrating when simple tasks turn into nightmares because some part number was transposed or the seller didn't realize there's a difference among models.

You certain that there's nothing in the bore halting the bearing from seating further? This one's a head scratcher for sure :huh:

Ha!
You're fast!
WTG!

Just waiting on my coupler sleeve spacer that was supposed to be here yesterday, but now won't arrive until tomorrow. But yesterday I got all the new wheel bearings installed, and new vesrah brake shoes, and have been doing some cleaning/painting while its all apart.

Then put it all back together, and see if my issues are gone! fingers crossed!

Well, got everything back together and there is no noise anymore, which is awesome. But, now I can't seem to tighten the rear axle nut enough to make room for the cotter pin, it seems like its about 1/8" away from being tight enough.

Also, my rear brake pedal is not returning. I'll admit, I don't know drum brakes and their adjustment very well, but I'm kinda stumped. Gonna watch some videos on adjustment rear drum brakes on a motorcycle.

Was hoping to ride to work tomorrow, but its not looking that way right now.

Did the shaft move freely before you took it apart? The castle nut has different openings on it and the axle has two holes, one 90* from the other.
Steve

Did you release the tensioning nut on the brake rod at the back? Having put new shoes in, you would have to unwind that nut so as to give the pedal a wee bit of travel before the brake shoes engage the drum. There is a metal arrow on the drum which shows you the adjustment range. Back-off the nut a few turns and retry the pedal. A few more turns, try the pedal until you get a short amount of free travel before the shoes engage.

As Steve said about the shaft - the cotter pin holes - two of them at 90 degrees apart or perpendicular to each other.

wrenchmonkey wrote: Did you release the tensioning nut on the brake rod at the back? Having put new shoes in, you would have to unwind that nut so as to give the pedal a wee bit of travel before the brake shoes engage the drum. There is a metal arrow on the drum which shows you the adjustment range. Back-off the nut a few turns and retry the pedal. A few more turns, try the pedal until you get a short amount of free travel before the shoes engage.

As Steve said about the shaft - the cotter pin holes - two of them at 90 degrees apart or perpendicular to each other.

Well, I got axle properly through and a new cotter pin installed. 1st problem down!

Problem #2, still having issues with my brake pedal. Its super squishy and has no tension. But when I tighten the 14mm tensioning nut on the brake rod, to get it to the point where it feels nice/normal, the brakes are already engaged.

Should I maybe jack the bike up, so the rear wheel is off the ground, start it, and put it in gear(letting the wheel spin at idle RPMS), and then adjust that nut until the wheel stops spinning? Or is that a bad idea?