Very frustrated now bike runs bad again

I know it's been a long time since I've fitted a boyer but you have removed the mechanical advancer as I mentioned previously?
Boyer use electrical advancer in the ignition box. 
redirect.viglink.com/?key=71fe2139a887ad...m/pdf/KIT8788101.pdf

 

Warren3200gt wrote:

I know it's been a long time since I've fitted a boyer but you have removed the mechanical advancer as I mentioned previously?
Boyer use electrical advancer in the ignition box. 
redirect.viglink.com/?key=71fe2139a887ad...m/pdf/KIT8788101.pdf


 

Thanks for the instructions they are almost the same as the manual that came with the boyer i got
Yes i have been wondering if it something wrong .But i had the dyna-s installed and i spread the weights and pulled ff the rotor for the dyna-s. Then i pulled off the advace unit that the weights are fitted ,but then there is nothing left to support the boyer rotor .Soo if i try to install when removed the advace mecanism unit the rotor just crashes into the timingplate and has nothing to support it only the long 13mm bolt and that has to small diameter to suport the boyer rotor., but mabe i have overlooked something and that is if there is a metal sleeve inside the advance mecanism?  i did not look close at it but i have removed the dyna s rotor.

If you still have the flyweights fitted you have NOT removed the mechanical advancer. 

Here is another confusing thing from the instructions ,but i will swap the coil leads like in the drawing so the right coils is for 1-4 cyl

I did it like in this video  ,but did not file/drill out the rotor for the lugs because the rotor did not interfere with the engine ignition cover when putting it back on.The instructions says that it is not needed to file/drill if the rotor not thutch the cover. I used blue locktite on the 13mm bolt     

First thing i did today was to ride down to the place i like to do some wrenching and  rewired the coils .I also rewired the HT leads .The boyer drawed instructions shows that right coil is for cyl 1 and 4 and the left for 3 and 2. I did wire everything exactly as the instructions .Also put the HT leads in the same position as in the boyer drawing because the boyer special coils has + and -  markings and maybe the ignition module takes that into calculations ? so now coils is in theory swapped.  Then vent for a testride.I noticed that engine runs much smother and after engine was god and warm i went for some high rews on the highway.This time when passing 5000rpm there was no stumblig jerking misses and loss of power.The engine pulled real strong and reacted instantly when twisting throttle over 5000 im very happy. I rode for about 2 hours and several times i tested if it started to make problems going over 5000rpm ,but it was smooth and had no hickups.
The hot start kickback is probably gone i did not test because dont want to damage the engine or starter gear ,but it starts very easy and smooth when just pushing the starter button and not twisting the throttle. So i guess this electrical confusing mess is solved. thanks to all for helping out.Im happy







 

You might want to bolt the coils to the frame to create a heat sync and dissipate the heat generated by the coils. Some fence clamps might do the trick. I had some coils ooze some goo due to overheating and burn out.  
Steve

SWest wrote:

You might want to bolt the coils to the frame to create a heat sync and dissipate the heat generated by the coils. Some fence clamps might do the trick. I had some coils ooze some goo due to overheating and burn out.  

Steve

I think these fittings for the coils came with the kit. The mounting points appear to be in the plastic case rather than the ends of the laminated core as normal so possibly, as they are only 0.5 ohm micro coils they don't suffer the same heat issues (only my opinion)
PS: however I'm not a fan of hanging anything with "zip ties" (they are great as a "get you home" solution)

Double answer I have been thinking about this to. The z1000 that i owned only 4 days the PO had screwed them into frame. Im not sure what to do yet. Like they are fitted now they are not grounded and not sure if they need to be ?  The holes in the coils are just alu bushings in the plastic i think. The instructions say nothing about how to mount the coils. I have used rubber self vulcanizing tape on the frame so they dont slip. Maybe i try to make some brackets or just use self drilling screws into frame .?

Rolf1976_KZ900 wrote:

Double answer I have been thinking about this to. The z1000 that i owned only 4 days the PO had screwed them into frame. Im not sure what to do yet. Like they are fitted now they are not grounded and not sure if they need to be ?  The holes in the coils are just alu bushings in the plastic i think. The instructions say nothing about how to mount the coils. I have used rubber self vulcanizing tape on the frame so they dont slip. Maybe i try to make some brackets or just use self drilling screws into frame .?

Dual output coils aren't grounded - generally they are solid mounted through the laminated iron core simply to dissipate heat into the chassis

Wookie58 wrote:

 

Dual output coils aren't grounded - generally they are solid mounted through the laminated iron core simply to dissipate heat into the chassis

Okay i thought that the laminated iron core was there to ground the  oem type coils.

One more question.. I wired the coils with a 10A fused wire directly from battery.That was an alternative option in the boyer instructions.
Is it dangerous to keep the killswitch on over night ? maybe the coils overheat from that? im not sure if the killswitch is 100% in order since it is sloppy . I will try to have a look at it but for now I dont want to touch it any more just have it in run position .