Very frustrated now bike runs bad again

It doesn't matter if the kill switch is left on.
It is only live when the ignition is on..

zed1015 wrote:

It doesn't matter if the kill switch is left on.
It is only live when the ignition is on..
 

Thanks that was good to hear. I just had another look at the alternative wiring diagram that i used and saw that when using a direct fused wire to battery positive from coils it did not connect with   the red/yellow wire coming from killswitch .

The direct feed for the coils isn't an issue as no current flows until the BB module is activated by the ignition via the kill switch, however if the "kill switch" is faulty you still have a "point of failure" which will stop the bike running. Also if the kill switch is arcing then it will cause power surges which could damage your new module (I don't know how sensitive they are)

Wookie58 wrote:

The direct feed for the coils isn't an issue as no current flows until the BB module is activated by the ignition via the kill switch, however if the "kill switch" is faulty you still have a "point of failure" which will stop the bike running. Also if the kill switch is arcing then it will cause power surges which could damage your new module (I don't know how sensitive they are)
 

Ok thanks next up is inspecting the killswitch just to be sure all is working right.

I still have not open the killswitc,. but i now know for sure it is worn out or damaged .That is because yesterday when on a trip the bike suddenly did not react when pushing the start button.Then i touched the killswitch that was in ON position the bike fired right up.So maybe that is what made one coil melt last year and bike run bad.
The bike runs fine now but that killswitch is a weak point that make some electrical gremlins.