TOPIC:

Howdy,

So my ignition switch has started to do nothing all of a sudden. It has happened before, but previously would solve by turning the key off and on until it decided to work.
Now in the middle of a canyon ride I stopped at the top to take in the views and it stopped working, and never came back.

my question is: is it possible to rebuild/revive an ignition switch? I would like to keep using my original key, which works for everything.

but if i'm doomed to have to replace the ignition switch entirely, which should I go with? Have been reading on the forum that the EMGO ones seems to be pretty decent. I don't really care for a steering lock, current clip ons do not allow it anyways.

One fairly common problem with all the switchgear on these old bikes is the solder. It gets brittle with age, and can vibrate apart. If that is the problem, it should be pretty easy to fix with a fine tip, some new solder and some patience.

haven't taken it off and actually looked at it yet, but I will give this a shot. I hope it works

Your ignition switch probably has a plastic cover at the base over the soldered wiring connections.
The cover probably has tabs that hold it in place >> access to the tabs is thru 2 rectangular holes in the body of the ign switch.
I use a terminal pin tool to press on the tabs, but a large paper clip, awl or something like that should work.

so the whole wiring actually just comes out of the switch itself, that's neat.

I'm no electrician, what's the opinion about re-soldering this? No.3 (white) on the wiring diagram runs to the fuse box then the starter solenoid.

Do they sell these anywhere? I don't even know what to call it.

As you can see there is a lot of heat (current flow) that have melt and burn the solder point and White wire insulation ( battery +).
Any pics of the internal copper slider Switch block??



It Looks like you have a hidden short cut circuit or a device that need a lot of current for nothing. Any electric device upgrades in the past???

forgot to add it, the burnt one in the middle is the white no. 3


OEM parts diagrams don't show this as a separate part unfortunately

No electrical "upgrades" but a couple months ago I changed out the turn signals and the headlight, both of which use the same bulbs original parts, except smaller size.
i was running 13V bulbs in the rear for like a week last year, but I got proper ones soon.

As i explain before, your ignition Switch block contcat is burned away and have to be replaced!!!!
Less contact and current load = more current, more heat/melting and so on and vice versa.... OHM`S LAW!!!
The weakest part of the main wiring give up first.

I'm trying to locate a used ignition switch to steal the plate off of, but all the ones I can find are 6 pin connectors with an extra female plug on the side.

mine is only a 5 pin connector, both male and female.

would a 6 pin one still work? can't figure out what that extra wire is for on the others...

Okay so it appears that after 1981 they added a "hazard relay" wire to the switch. My question now is did the wire for the hazards just take up the empty space? or did it get re-arranged in the connector after 1981? very obscure information...

pre 1982 kz 550 ignition switches run $150 on bike bandit, yikes!

let me know if you see something floating around. might run with an after market one until I can find one.

Starting to think someone custom made this one or something, or it was specifically on the GPZ. cant not find any switch with the same connector.

anyone with an 81 gpz550 want to show me their switch connector? just for comparison

does this help... I don't know anything about your bike... trying to help...
www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1980-...-ignition-key-switch