1982 Kawasaki kz550 LTD no response in cluster

Ok, so Any power at the Harness connector for the ignition switch? You have it at fuse end of the white wire, how about at the connector for the ignition switch?

So you mean the white male end of the harness? with the ignition switch disconnected?

The harness end, not the switch end, connector disconnected, main fuse in place. Battery voltage on the white?

Wish there was some way to Video-chat and be able to explain these issues better haha

There is 2 white wires, they both jump between 7-10V, they don't stay at a constant voltage

Well we went over this the other night. I know there is something up there, as you had measured the connection before. But I just want to go back over this. It hopefully will accomplish a couple of things. For one, double checking is a good procedure, it will get you used to using your meter. Seeing results and what to look for.
I don't know if you looked at the wiring diagram, and the Box at the bottom of it that shows the switch contacts. But you would see how the circuit is run. First the battery, then the main fuse up to the switch, then when switched on it supplies power out of the switch to a couple of wires. Brown is the main one, for a lot of your bike. So first you have to have power going to the switch, then the switch has to be On, Make contact, and power then out to the brown wire. You will get there, just keep at it.

With my black probe on the battery negative, I put the red probe on the brown wire coming out of the side of the harness (not actually in the harness) and I get no voltage with the switch on or off.

Bkirk24 wrote: There is 2 white wires, they both jump between 7-10V, they don't stay at a constant voltage

Ok, now there is a Splice, thats a connection in the harness where one wire becomes two. So what you want to do is follow the two white wires down into the harness. You will see where the two are Soldered together. Look closely at this, test the White wire father back along, before the splice. Is the voltage back to Battery level? If so it looks like you need to repair the Splice. This would be to Cut back to clean wire, about 1/2 inch and strip the Insulation, then re-solder it together. Do you know what Heat Shrink is? You can get some at Harbor Freight, or Radio Shack or lots of places. This works good to re-cover the soldered spot. Then you can re-tape the harness.

Found out its not a splice, out of the harness slot, the whites splits off and runs into another slot? I'll attach a picture!

Bkirk24 wrote: With my black probe on the battery negative, I put the red probe on the brown wire coming out of the side of the harness (not actually in the harness) and I get no voltage with the switch on or off.

That's ok at the moment. You need to get the White wire to feed the system. Look at the Splice in the harness. Check for voltage there, on the side coming from the fuse.
See the other night you had a connection on the white wire that you measured in Ohm's, with a Beep. Testing from the Main fuse, fuse disconnected, and the switch connector in the head light bucket. While it Beeped, when you put it all back, and tried to measure voltage, there was none.
This is why measuring Voltage is better than Ohm's. You are trying to see a steady voltage when the circuit is functioning, under load.

There is no splice in the white wire, in the picture I attached you can see that the wire is just spliced inside the harness connection to the ignition switch

Bkirk24 wrote: Found out its not a splice, out of the harness slot, the whites splits off and runs into another slot? I'll attach a picture!

Yea Ok I see that. The white wire comes in on that left corner, then it has a second hooked to it at the spade terminal, then it Loops over to the other right side. This is because it powers to sides of the Ignition switch, you will see that on the wiring diagram.
So nothing there to chase back down inside the harness as a splice, its all right there close to the connector.