1982 Kawasaki kz550 LTD no response in cluster

So we connected the probes and we have the beep going on, while going through all the harnesses no disconnections stopped the beep, so does that mean we have a wire running directly from the ignition to the main fuse?

Should show exactly that. So go back to DC Volts on the Meter. Put the Main Fuse Back In. Verify the connection across the fuse, voltage both sides. Go back to the headlight housing white wire, voltage between there and the battery negative or engine block?

Getting 0.00 on the meter with the white connection that gave the beep and the black probe on the negative lead of the battery.

Birk24, I forgot to ask you where are you in this KZ world anyway? Maybe a member is around your neck of the woods?

Cincinnati Ohio

Bkirk24 wrote: Getting 0.00 on the meter with the white connection that gave the beep and the black probe on the negative lead of the battery.

Thats pretty strange. If you show connection with the OHM's but not voltage, on the same wire and connection? If it was shorted out to ground the fuse would blow. So that should be ruled out.
You proved that you had the correct wire with the OHM check. You prove voltage at the one end but not the other, fuse not blown. Doesn't make sense. Something is a miss. While the OHM check basically puts little voltage through the connection/ wire, since it runs on its own 1.5 or possibly 9v battery in the meter. the actual voltage would be minimal through the OHM meter. The 12v from the bike battery should flow that path. At least most of it, you should show at least some sort of voltage.

Bkirk24 wrote: Cincinnati Ohio

Oh I don't know who is right there. but there are a few around the area. Not me I'm in Oregon.

Okay so semi-good news, when we attach the positive lead to the main fuse and the negative probe to the white wire in the harness attached to the ignition switch, we're getting a reading of 12.61V, I'll attach a picture to show what we mean.

SO if we're getting power to the ignition harness, and reconnect the harness together, and turning the key does nothing, bringing no power. Does this mean that the problem is in the ignition switch?

OK, so let me ask, was the White wire disconnected at both ends before, when you did the OHM check Beep? Because now you are holding the red lead at battery POS and the Black at the Harness side of the Ignition switch connector, on the white wire. Then reading battery voltage. So the Black Lead is getting Ground from the white wire at the harness end, which it should Not be. I would think the Main Fuse Would Blow.
Disconnect the Main Fuse and Isolate the white wire again. Test the white wire and ground for the Beep on OHM's. So the white wire is Not connected to the bike at either end, just the meter to one end, and then one ground, battery negative or engine block. Let me look at the diagram and make sure there is no splice to another connection. Nope just Two different connections at the Ignition switch. If unplugged it should be just the white wire.

Sorry for the random drop off last night, had a bit of an emergency but I'm back at it today! So I put it on the ohms beep setting with the black attached to the negative lead of the battery and when I touch it to the white wire (the main fuse that is disconnected) I get a beep, also when I attach the red wire to the white wire in the harness in the headlight I also get a beep.

You are going to blow up your meter doing that (if you haven't already). You need to put down the meter and read the instructions that came with it and maybe read some theory on the internet. Testing for resistance (ohms) is definitely NOT the same as testing for voltage or amperage. If you test from hot to ground with the meter on the ohms setting you will blow it up unless it has some sort of protection built in. But even if it doesn't blow up, you will not gain anything by doing that. Ed