1982 Kawasaki kz550 LTD no response in cluster

Yes it will be a Plug, white connector I believe with the wires from the Ignition switch. If you look at the Diagram, you will see the Ignition switch, then just below it shows the connector. We want to check that the connector is plugged in tight.

It could be that this connector is in the headlight bucket, I can't remember for sure. I had one of those 550's a few years ago. But basically we need to verify that the switch is indeed plugged in. If its plugged in then we can make some more tests.
It may help you to open the diagram in a good photo or pdf viewer, so you can zoom and stuff. Lots easier to see that way. Both adobe reader and picassa are free. Adobe Web Site has the reader, and google has picassa.

I opened up the headlight because that is where all the wires were leading to. I found a plug that had a white connector and plugged it in and unplugged it again etc. I noticed one of the white wires had black on it too. I tested them both with a 20v test on my meter and both came out with 0.00 with the key in the on and off position

The wire coming from the main fuse to the Ignition Switch is White, no stripe.
This is the feed to the switch. You need to verify that the switch is getting power. So you need to find the connector, here you will check it plugged, and also the white wire has power through the harness up to that point.
the white wire is still the same size/ diameter as it is at the main fuse, all the way to the switch.

Have you been to Lou's website and downloaded the Factory Service Manual?
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Mnls/Kz...ase99924_1018_06.pdf

So this is what I'm looking at and the wire in this harness (the white one) is coming back with nothing on the meter

Does that connector have the same wires as the diagram for the Ignition switch? Looks like the connector, thats for sure but double check that it has the wires and the other end leads to the switch itself.
If thats it, then the Harness end, not the swithc end should show battery voltage if the main fuse is good. Make sure you have the black test lead either still on the battery negative or ground it to a bare metal either on the frame or motor. The Handlebars should be ok also, but stick to either the battery or the engine or frame.

Bkirk24 wrote: Thanks Ed! Like I've said I'm very new to this so all of these duh moments are helpful! What setting on the ohms should I set my meter too? I had it set to 2k and its reading about .03 then goes to 0.00?

0 ohms is correct for continuity. That means the fuse is ok. Ed

Geez the sever went scitzoid again for quite awhile.
Anyway, if you get to the point of having No power On the White Wire, at the Plug In for the Switch but the Main Fuse for sure is good. Let me know and I'll set you with another test.

I tested both sides, one of which i believe is the side that leads to the battery, is showing a voltage of .8 to 1.0 (only when i jump the fuse with the screwdriver)

Lets back up. Back to the fuse panel. The Main Fuse, the one that is between the Red/ White Wire and the White wire, 20 AmPs. It has battery power on each side, No Screwdriver, Right?

correct! showing 12.61V to each side

OK. Now lets Just Test the White Wire. So Take out your Main Fuse. Make sure the Power is Not there anymore on the White.
Then Set your Meter to test OHM's, You may need a longer test wire, but one meter probe will go on the white at the fuse panel. The other end at the connector in the Headlight bucket.
Measure if there are any OHM's smallest scale. Leave it connected, if the Meter Has Beep or Alert Sound function turn it on. Go along the harness and do whats called a "Wiggle Test". This will be pushing and pulling on the harness where the white wire travels. The whole length, up under the tank etc. Keep looking at the meter, or listing for the beep.
Seems on mine there are other connectors under the tank also. But its a different Bike/ model.