There's a diagram for the KZ550-F2 Ltd Shaft on pg 15 & there also should be a diagram for the 83 550-F1 Spectre (shaft drive), but I don't know what page the F1 Spectre is on. The F1 & F2 are probably very similar to the M1 Ltd Shaft.
From the looks of it, it should work. I just can't believe Kawasaki p UK t out so many different wiring schematics for the same engine. I understand going from points to an electronic ignition, but i downloaded a PDF with all the full diagrams and from 79 to 86 there are 20. Some are because the North American/European difference, which to whatever may be the need for that; But i can't even find the correct OEM controls off Ebay. I got left hand controls from a 1984 because anything before that is wrong for my 1983 with the manufacturer date being 06/82. I'm gonna dk the tear down and rewire over next winter. I do wanna thank you for taking the time for replying though. I appreciate it!
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1981 Kawasaki Kz750H2 for Nixon
Kz750H Kz750 H2 Kz 750 H 750H2 750H
You didn't mention whether you were keeping the horn or not and the Cbr and Kz wire the horn differently. Also, I don't have an 81 H2 diagram, but I am working from 80 H1 and 82 H3 diagrams. Those two models wire the horn differently so I'm not sure which way the 81 H2 is wired. Since the horn button is from the Cbr which is more similar to the 82 H3 , I'm changing the drawing to reflect that. Because it uses a ground wire rather than the frame, it should have slightly better horn operation.
I have an 81 kz440 ldt and the entire wiring harness is toast, need to go barebones and rewire the whole thing. Found a couple diagrams that should help as far as the model year, but should i try and salvage wiring from the original harness or go for all new wires? if so what gage should i shoot for? Total newbie here and this rebuild is breaking me. Thank you in advance for any info!
I use a combination of both. There's plenty of good wire in an old harness, but you have to know where to look for bad wires. Most of the bad wires will be anywhere the harness had to traverse moving frame parts, so the worst spot is between the main frame and handle bars on the left side of the neck. Nothing in there should be re-used without very close inspection.
Also, anywhere the wire terminated you might have some dirt or corrosion so I will cut off connectors plus a couple inches before crimping on a new connector. If the wire and connector look very good, like new, then I may re-use the wire and connector as is, if it's convenient.
When copper breaks inside the insulator it creates a bump. Any wire with bumps in it are suspect. You can get bumps from other things, but without cutting it open it's hard to say what lies under the insulator.
Thank you very much! And i found the diagram you made up for CoffeeBrake and i think that will work best for what i need. To get it registered in Oregon i just need a headlight, taillight, and a horn, plus a license plate light, I can do away with turn signals for now, as long as i dont "ride at night" and a rear brake light. Its braking my heart not seeing her on the road. Ill pulll the old harness apart and inspect all the wires and see what is still usable.
On my '81 KZ750H I have a blue wire that runs from the ignition cover on the right side to the tach, my question is can I delete this wire or is it for my oil pressure switch? My oil light is in the tach which is why I am curious.
If there isn't a starter solenoid, then there probably isn't a starter motor either, and the diagram is probably for a kick start only (no electric start).
The black wire is probably a ground & could be black-yellow or connected to Bk-Y. The ground wire circuit on Kawasaki motorcycles is usually black-yellow. A black ground wire is sometimes used for some components in addition to the Bk-Y circuit.
In general, in most if not all of his diagrams the hot wires or battery pos (+) wires are in the upper portion of the diagrams, and the ground or battery neg (-) are in the lower portion of the diagrams. ....
Thank you for your quick reply martin_csr, I've purchased a KZ750 '79 and ALL of the wires have been removed and I'm trying to start it before I take it completely apart, so I know what I'm working with. The previous owner did however give me all the wire bundles so I am slowly putting the pieces back together. Would you have any recommendations on soldering over crimping? I'm thinking of just soldering everything with a shrink wrap over it to seal it.
The '79 does have a starter solenoid but I'm missing a voltage regulator/rectifier and the turn signal relay. Purchasing that soon along with a new instrument cluster and starter switch.
In my opinion, solder only has limited use on a harness. Connections at switch contacts are often soldered by the factory, like on the back of the ignition switch. Almost everything else is crimped. Crimping lasts a lot longer. Solder erodes the wire, and the heat weakens the copper. Solder gets wicked into the conductor and creates a rigid wire such that the strands are prone to break off from vibration or motion.
The only other place I use solder is if i have to join wires together in a harness like at a t intersection . The way to do it is to run the intersecting wire parallel to the other wires for a bit then bend the wire away at a point where there is no solder. Then I wrap the solder joint so it is supported by the rest of the harness against any movement. That way any movement only affects a clean stretch of wire. Stranded wire can take a lot of movement without breaking.
I do stock type crimps using open barrel terminals & an open barrel crimper >> the crimps are very strong. I already had a HF ratcheting crimper, but the dies were wrong, so I got an open barrel die set from amazon.com. Some components, such as the ignition switch, have soldered connections inside, which sometimes need to be redone. Z1Enterprises.com & CycleTerminal.com have terminals, plastic connectors & crimp tools. Z1Ent also has colored wire. ps: loudhvx knows more about this stuff than I do. I'm kind of a rank amateur in the electricals. hee.