There's a diagram for the KZ550-F2 Ltd Shaft on pg 15 & there also should be a diagram for the 83 550-F1 Spectre (shaft drive), but I don't know what page the F1 Spectre is on. The F1 & F2 are probably very similar to the M1 Ltd Shaft.
From the looks of it, it should work. I just can't believe Kawasaki p UK t out so many different wiring schematics for the same engine. I understand going from points to an electronic ignition, but i downloaded a PDF with all the full diagrams and from 79 to 86 there are 20. Some are because the North American/European difference, which to whatever may be the need for that; But i can't even find the correct OEM controls off Ebay. I got left hand controls from a 1984 because anything before that is wrong for my 1983 with the manufacturer date being 06/82. I'm gonna dk the tear down and rewire over next winter. I do wanna thank you for taking the time for replying though. I appreciate it!
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1981 Kawasaki Kz750H2 for Nixon
Kz750H Kz750 H2 Kz 750 H 750H2 750H
You didn't mention whether you were keeping the horn or not and the Cbr and Kz wire the horn differently. Also, I don't have an 81 H2 diagram, but I am working from 80 H1 and 82 H3 diagrams. Those two models wire the horn differently so I'm not sure which way the 81 H2 is wired. Since the horn button is from the Cbr which is more similar to the 82 H3 , I'm changing the drawing to reflect that. Because it uses a ground wire rather than the frame, it should have slightly better horn operation.
I have an 81 kz440 ldt and the entire wiring harness is toast, need to go barebones and rewire the whole thing. Found a couple diagrams that should help as far as the model year, but should i try and salvage wiring from the original harness or go for all new wires? if so what gage should i shoot for? Total newbie here and this rebuild is breaking me. Thank you in advance for any info!
I use a combination of both. There's plenty of good wire in an old harness, but you have to know where to look for bad wires. Most of the bad wires will be anywhere the harness had to traverse moving frame parts, so the worst spot is between the main frame and handle bars on the left side of the neck. Nothing in there should be re-used without very close inspection.
Also, anywhere the wire terminated you might have some dirt or corrosion so I will cut off connectors plus a couple inches before crimping on a new connector. If the wire and connector look very good, like new, then I may re-use the wire and connector as is, if it's convenient.
When copper breaks inside the insulator it creates a bump. Any wire with bumps in it are suspect. You can get bumps from other things, but without cutting it open it's hard to say what lies under the insulator.
Thank you very much! And i found the diagram you made up for CoffeeBrake and i think that will work best for what i need. To get it registered in Oregon i just need a headlight, taillight, and a horn, plus a license plate light, I can do away with turn signals for now, as long as i dont "ride at night" and a rear brake light. Its braking my heart not seeing her on the road. Ill pulll the old harness apart and inspect all the wires and see what is still usable.
On my '81 KZ750H I have a blue wire that runs from the ignition cover on the right side to the tach, my question is can I delete this wire or is it for my oil pressure switch? My oil light is in the tach which is why I am curious.