Replaced perished manifold boots now v high idle speed

Pics say more than 1000 words.....       

Thank you Warrengt32. I wish I’d known that. Great tip. I’m learning a lot here. 

in the meantime I’ve decided the float assembly is just too mangled to re-use. To be fair, it had already been bent out of shape a fair bit (looking at an earlier photo) before I removed it and started adjusting it per earlier advice. 

I’ve tracked down a replacement which looks undamaged, possibly unused, on eBay. So it’s on its way. 

this feels a bit like renovating an old house: start with one small problem then as the layers are peeled away, more trouble emerges. 

I will get there. 

Given my spraying of the rubber gaskets with carb cleaner, would you recommend replacing them ?

Thank you Scirocco. 

I can see what you mean. My iPhone can’t take such good close ups and it’s hard to get good lighting and good line of sight under the float assembly to see things here so clearly. 

55 year-old eyes don’t help either 

Regarding your question about the rubber bits, they should always be replaced. The only exception are the slide diaphragms.
Reusing old rubber bits is false economy, especially when you do not know their age or what quality they were when new.

The best carburetor cleaning fluids will damage rubber, some do not. If you got some on the slide diaphragms, then immediately and carefully wash them with warm soapy water. They might be ok. 

Jimbo68 wrote:

 

The float to the right is covered with brown gas varnish scum that must be removed.  It weighs the float down, which causes it to sink, to a lower level in the float bowl.

Can the pins be taken out? Some are a semi press fit and that's how the holders get broken. On my 33's the last 1/8" is pressed in. I dread having to remove them with a small punch. One was bent when I got them. Had to file one side of my new floats for it to fit without sticking. 
Steve

Hi there.  I now have all the parts to put my carbs together and test. before I do, I am contemplating removing the jet parts (#7 to #14) in the diagram and skooshing with carb cleaner. However, I’m nervous.  1: removal of the o ring before cleaning might damage its integrity. 2: I might not get everything put back together properly.  Is it straightforward? What are you views please?

Without removing the jets you won't be able to clean the passages fully, with regards the "O" rings it's best to replace them all when you have gone this far

Wookie58 wrote:

Without removing the jets you won't be able to clean the passages fully, with regards the "O" rings it's best to replace them all when you have gone this far

Exactly correct.  

In addition to the part shown, the pilot screw passages, not shown, needs careful cleaning.

I have O-ring kits for those carbs, if you are in need.

Unless you really enjoy taking the carbs off the bike, partially cleaning them, reinstalling them and then doing it over and over, then do it right the first time.

Thea carbs need to be separated from each other, then each carb needs to be completely disassembled. Completely disassembled. Having a small plastic container for each carb is an easy way to keep the parts for each carb separate. You can do one carb at a time so you can use the other as a pattern for reassembly. Do not be afraid to take lots of pics from a variety of angles as you disassemble. The pics can be a great aid during assembly.
The low speed passageways in the carb bodies are really tiny and can be clogged by a nearly microscopic bit of spoodge. ( Spoodge is similar to smegma.) Even after soaking in your favorite carburetor cleaning chemical, a tiny wire, I use an e string, may be needed to clear them. Then spray each passageway carefully with carb cleaner in a can with the straw installed. Wear eye protection. Carb cleaner can really damage your eyes. Carefully look through every jet to see if they are clear. Compressed air can be helpful, too, but if you are not careful, the air can shoot tiny parts into the next time zone.

If you are holding small parts like jets when using compressed air, ideally wear gloves or ensure the tip of your blowgun isn't against your skin (air in your blood stream will ruin your day)

It looks like one of the previous owners decided to bend the choke plate on the carb we found had a float coated with gunk. I guess it was constantly running lean. 

any suggestions on how to flatten it back to how it should be? I thought the two screws once removed would release the plate and I could take a mallet to it, but no go.