KZ900 Carb Re-Jet and Tuning

I will take a look.
I have the carbs with the brass drain plug on the bottom instead of the 17mm hex head. I thought that was what differentiated the carbs.
Thanks,

I have the page bookmarked already haha. Based on that info I have the 75 z1b carbs. I realize now my thread still says kz900 carb re-jet. The frame is a kz900 the engine and carbs are from a 75 z1b. Sorry for the mixup.
I should probably also post the update on the jets that were in the carbs: 115 main jets and 20 pilot jets. The needles were clipped up to the 2nd position. Three of the cylinders looked to be very rich, as evidenced by the spark plugs on the last page. The 4th carb however had the slide moved waaaaay up and the sparkplug looks like that was running normal. I am still new to reading spark plugs so if anyone wants to take a look at them on page 1 please be my guest and post back with your findings.

Z-1B carbs differ somewhat from earlier Z-1 / Z-1A carbs. The most significant difference is the position of the enrichment jet well and tube in the float bowl and carb body respectively. Z-1 float bowl gaskets won't work on Z-1B carbs & vice versa because of the slight physical difference in enrichment circuit positions. The top caps are identical.
Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE
.

Neither z1 enterprises nor jetsrus has top gaskets for sale standalone, I do not need the kits. I ordered "reproduction created from NOS genuine parts" off ebay. Ebay gaskets have got to be better than the old ones I have on there now. We'll see. Hoping to get everything put back together by this weekend. Its supposed to be nearly 80 on Sunday. It is 19 today.

I will be adjusting the slides mechanically tonight. The book says I need a 0.7mm clearance between the bottom of the slide and the carb. I read that I need to measure that from the engine side of the carb yes? I found online that 22 AWG wire should measure .7mm so I removed the shielding and measured the wire and we're pretty much spot on from what I can tell.

I plan on clipping up the needle to the top notch and doing plug chops to test. I am a bit worried about running the bike WOT though. The two times I've gotten close to WOT the bike bogged down and had no power. If I end up with some power at WOT it is going to be a bit hair raising!

The gasket that goes under the top cover of VM carbs is really easy to make. All you need is a sharp exaxto knife and a thin sheet of generic gasket material from tour favorite auto parts store.

Hi conspiracy,
Check the float height using the clear tube method. If fuel level in the float bowls isn't right nothing else matters. Don't stress too much about the 0.7mm size. It's meant to get things close enough to run, so that one can use vacuum gauges (or mercury sticks if you're fortunate enough to have them) for fine synchronization.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Working in getting carbs back together. Decided to buy new screws for inside the throttle body but they are going in very easily. Has anyone replaced these screws before and maybe can helmet me find an exact replacement.

Hi Conspiracy,
Kaw PN# 16033-015
They may or may not still be available from Kaw.

Also available from Fastenal:
www.fastenal.com/products/details/016318...22Split%20Lock%22$|~

Both of these will be JIS screws. JIS screwdrivers are strongly recommended when working on any Japanese bike.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Nooooooooo
Broke a bolt off. Have to get it drilled out probably. Ugh this is so frustrating.

I realized I have 8 other carbs downstairs that I got from a guy in Craigslist. I guess I could clean up one of those and swap it out while this gets fixed

This guy has good quality gaskets.

www.redlinecycle.com/Carbs%20-%20Bowl%20Gaskets.html

I have my carbs back on the bike and it started up pretty easily.
I set all the air screw to the standard 1-1/4 turn before I put the carbs back on.
I set the gap on my idle adjust to 10mm per the manual. The screw is not affecting my idle at all.
I played with the air screw just a bit and noticed a few things:
After letting the bike warm up it is idling around 2500rpm. The manual say idle should be 1200-1400. I can increase idle by turning out air screws, up to 3000 or so biut have no way to adjust the idle back down.

The manual says that the goal of adjusting air screws is to achieve highest idle rpm, but I am concerned with it going too high.
I also read that if I am out more then 2 turns on the air screw that my pilot may be too rich. How far out is too far?

Thanks

Which 'mechanic' did you have work done by? I know of two in
your area that are old school drag racers that are good. And
they both have dynos also.


.

I am looking into getting a stock air box and could use some help.
What all items will I need to replace pods with an air box?
This is what I have in my cart:
Air box
Air box lid

Do I need a breather pipe?
What about rubber connectors from the air box to the carb?

I am using z1parts.net but I do not see that they have any rubber connectors for a z1

Thanks