Clear tube float adjustment on 29mm

spdygon wrote:

Here's my 29's not sure what your trying to get out as there's
no removable jet in the inlet side.

Ok I was wrong the air jet down in the hole next to the brass plug.
When I got mine one of the pilot's was stripped so I used a VERY small drill bit and a ez-out
to get it out.

more work done.....
while back ordered and rebuilt carb kit , card screw kit , aluminum T's among other parts for my 26mm.
so i finish rebuilding the carbs yesterday install on my bike and fired it up....sounded graet all cylinders now firing correctly.
10 minutes later notice gas ( wetness) from carb 1 , 2, 3 not 4. so i check float level and adjust.
today i did a bench test to check for gas leak and found gas wetness coming from between carb and bowl. gasket not sealing correctly.
kit i got seem to be universal...as pic show....gaskets are paper..
no one else had this problem?

What brand kit? There are some bowl gaskets that are too thin and dont seal correctly and others that are thicker and give enough squish.

Or your bowls could be tweaked

Carb work fine when bike was park in 97.
Parts are from z1enter.

so found why the gaskets from the bowls were leaking....
pic on left has a hole on left side of gasket


as u can see the other gasket is a little wider then the first one use...still work them on


went looking for my orinigal K&N filters to clean and use




got the carbs sync ....bouncing around 20&22


so far no leaks..idleing good smooth around 1600rpm..anything below that it slowly dies
next up put some miles...till then
Remember this Carbs are the 26mm not the 29mm...need to get a kit for the 29mm....i already had the kit for the 26mm reason why im using them.
i did use the main(132.5) pilot jet (25) niddle set on the 3rd clip and the air screw 1 1/4 out

[quote="spdygon" post=657606...idleing good smooth around 1600rpm..anything below that it slowly dies....[/quote]

If not already done, would assure valve clearances are within specs.

Too tight valve clearance, even where compression test results are acceptable, may result in poor performance at idle rpm.

Good Fortune!

thx Patton....will do

check the valve clearance...all check at 6 and 7mm. cam spec say between 6 and 8.

thinking it will be the rubber seal on the top of the carbs....ones were the shaft runs through.
2 end caps and 6 inners...anyboby makes them let me know

spdygon wrote: check the valve clearance...all check at 6 and 7mm. cam spec say between 6 and 8.

thinking it will be the rubber seal on the top of the carbs....ones were the shaft runs through.
2 end caps and 6 inners...anyboby makes them let me know

This should not be an issue or you would not be able the synchronize the carbs right? I remember this being brought up in a different thread. Anyway, when you pull the caps to synchronize you can also see the shaft that runs through them all. Those rubbe seals shouldn't effect how they run.

I think you jetted way to rich..
With a 25 pilot it's to rich to burn and that's
why you need the 1600 rpm idle.
I'd go back to 17.5 pilot and 120 main's as a base line
then start doing plug chop's with NEW plug's with each jet change.

Zukdave.....remember the engine is built 1198cc with z4 cams. The jetting is what the 29mm smoothbore had....
So fiigure the 26mm would need them as well. I already had the kit for the 26mm reason for using them. The 29mm need rebuilt.
Found the rod seals for $29 ea a company called SCI ..they are ebay selling parts.
I'll drive the bike when good weather comes around and see what it does.
For those that are running a simuler engine ....what jetting u using?