Is this a problem?

roy-b-boy-b wrote:

What were your clearances on the number one valves? Roy

.002 rear .003 front

dave ,
i know you probably dont want to hear this, but if its firing on choke and wide open, the 2 positions where fuel is in abundance, you still have an issue in the pilot circuit......my method is primitive , but has worked for me....pull the tops, throttle shaft, choke shaft, yank the bowls , jets, fuel valves, etc.....you can leave em on the rack......3 cans of carb clean and and an orifice cleaning tool from z-1...and some compressed air....wear some safety glasses and spray, ream, and blow out to the point of redundancy........remember what slides came out of what carbs and hit them with a little mothers to smooth them up...polish the throttle shaft with some mothers and lightly grease on re-assembly......make sure your float pins are clean, i give them a little rag and mothers treatment also......make sure all the tabs on the floats are the same.....put them back together and bench synch.....

keith1 wrote:

dave ,
i know you probably dont want to hear this, but if its firing on choke and wide open, the 2 positions where fuel is in abundance, you still have an issue in the pilot circuit......my method is primitive , but has worked for me....pull the tops, throttle shaft, choke shaft, yank the bowls , jets, fuel valves, etc.....you can leave em on the rack......3 cans of carb clean and and an orifice cleaning tool from z-1...and some compressed air....wear some safety glasses and spray, ream, and blow out to the point of redundancy........remember what slides came out of what carbs and hit them with a little mothers to smooth them up...polish the throttle shaft with some mothers and lightly grease on re-assembly......make sure your float pins are clean, i give them a little rag and mothers treatment also......make sure all the tabs on the floats are the same.....put them back together and bench synch.....

i just took them out again...... i lost count on how many times this is.
i removed the pilet jet and fuel mixture screw. when i spray through the pilot jet whole the spray comes out of the whole were the needle of the fuel mixture screw sets.
from the above diagram this is the way it is suppose to go.
it runs good... but pipe for number one does not get as hot as the others. also if i remove the wire off number 1 i get no change. i think i solved the poping by adjusting the mixture screw on number 2 cylinder.

i just dont know what els to do. is this the best it will get?

davelKZ1000 wrote:

...i removed the pilot jet and fuel mixture screw. when i spray through the pilot jet whole the spray comes out of the whole were the needle of the fuel mixture screw sets.

Hopefully spray also comes out bypass outlet 3 (as well as pilot outlet 4).

Is the float bowl fuel level correct as verified by the clear tube test? If too low, could disallow sufficient fuel into pilot jet.

Would also consider installing a new pilot jet to preclude possibility of damaged orifices in the existing pilot jet. Sometimes over zealous cleaning may damage the pilot jet orifices.

Would also double check condition of pointy tip on pilot mixture screw to assure it isn't damaged.

Opposite problem could be an over-rich condition which might be fuel-fouling the spark plug, perhaps caused by too high fuel level.

What does spark plug reading indicate? Too rich (sooty)? Perhaps dry (lack of fuel mixture)?

What's effect of installing a brand new spark plug? Does it combust for a short time before fouling out -- or never fire at all -- or what?

[Sorry if some of this has already been covered.]

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

davelKZ1000 wrote:

...i removed the pilot jet and fuel mixture screw. when i spray through the pilot jet whole the spray comes out of the whole were the needle of the fuel mixture screw sets.

Hopefully spray also comes out bypass outlet 3 (as well as pilot outlet 4).

Is the float bowl fuel level correct as verified by the clear tube test? If too low, could disallow sufficient fuel into pilot jet.

Would also consider installing a new pilot jet to preclude possibility of damaged orifices in the existing pilot jet. Sometimes over zealous cleaning may damage the pilot jet orifices.

ill try some of this tomorrow....two things....I do not recall seeing spray come out of bypass outlet. one thing i did do is while bike running i removed the mixture screw and sprayed carb cleaner up through the mixure screw whole. nothing happend...no change at all whatsoever.

Would also double check condition of pointy tip on pilot mixture screw to assure it isn't damaged.

Opposite problem could be an over-rich condition which might be fuel-fouling the spark plug, perhaps caused by too high fuel level.

What does spark plug reading indicate? Too rich (sooty)? Perhaps dry (lack of fuel mixture)?

What's effect of installing a brand new spark plug? Does it combust for a short time before fouling out -- or never fire at all -- or what?

[Sorry if some of this has already been covered.]

Good Fortune!

davelKZ1000 wrote:

...one thing i did do is while bike running i removed the mixture screw and sprayed carb cleaner up through the mixure screw whole. nothing happened...no change at all whatsoever....

Indicates no spark.

Good Fortune!

davelKZ1000 wrote:

Patton wrote:

davelKZ1000 wrote:

...i removed the pilot jet and fuel mixture screw. when i spray through the pilot jet whole the spray comes out of the whole were the needle of the fuel mixture screw sets.

Hopefully spray also comes out bypass outlet 3 (as well as pilot outlet 4).

Is the float bowl fuel level correct as verified by the clear tube test? If too low, could disallow sufficient fuel into pilot jet.

Would also consider installing a new pilot jet to preclude possibility of damaged orifices in the existing pilot jet. Sometimes over zealous cleaning may damage the pilot jet orifices.

ill try some of this tomorrow....two things....I do not recall seeing spray come out of bypass outlet. one thing i did do is while bike running i removed the mixture screw and sprayed carb cleaner up through the mixure screw whole. nothing happend...no change at all whatsoever.

Would also double check condition of pointy tip on pilot mixture screw to assure it isn't damaged.

Opposite problem could be an over-rich condition which might be fuel-fouling the spark plug, perhaps caused by too high fuel level.

What does spark plug reading indicate? Too rich (sooty)? Perhaps dry (lack of fuel mixture)?

What's effect of installing a brand new spark plug? Does it combust for a short time before fouling out -- or never fire at all -- or what?

[Sorry if some of this has already been covered.]

Good Fortune!

ok as far as the plugs... 2 3 and 4 are good. I started the bike on choke let it warm up. number one got hot i took out plug and it was wet but it was oily. smelled more like oil than gas. i swaped out for a new plug and let it idle and it was not as bad as the one i just took out. left pipe also has the oil coming out of it but it gets less as the bike warms up....heres a pic of the oil out of pipe

WOW :blink:
That looks like a lot of oil. I'd put money on a bad valve seal and guide. Could be ring problems or a blown gasket, but I'd look at valve seals first.

Would sniff-test the crankcase oil for any odor of gasoline, which would indicate fuel intrusion into crankcase (possibly resulting from carb issue).

Fuel-thinned crankcase oil could result in oily exhaust, especially from non-combusting cylinder.

Good Fortune!

TexasKZ wrote:

WOW :blink:
That looks like a lot of oil. I'd put money on a bad valve seal and guide. Could be ring problems or a blown gasket, but I'd look at valve seals first.

How do I check valve seals and guids

davelKZ1000 wrote:

TexasKZ wrote:

WOW :blink:
That looks like a lot of oil. I'd put money on a bad valve seal and guide. Could be ring problems or a blown gasket, but I'd look at valve seals first.

How do I check valve seals and guids

pull the head.....youve got a decision to make....if you really like this bike and plan to keep it, and the money is there, pull the head and get it redone and your oil problem is solved.....200-300 for basic headwork and add another 250 at least for associated stuff and incidentals.....could be more depending on what you see when you tear it open.....

You said you have compression, but what are the numbers?
How much difference between cylinders?

Are you sure thats oil blowing out, and not a gas/soot/some oil mixture?

Are all the mixture screws present, with thier o-rings, and the tips of them are good?

You could have a broken oil control ring...
Or gas overflowing into cylinder, into oil thinning it...

Check...

Or just pull the head and block off and take it in to get checked and deglazed.
Then throw in new rings and head gasket, and away ya go.