Flat spot need help (new info) and pics

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OK George just cleaned them and that is all. That is a stock needle. He did not due any of the modifications which are required to run Pods. If you wish, you can send me the complete slide assemblies with needles, and I can do the mods. We can use the stock needles but they will have to be trimmed and spaced. I can do that work with a three to four day turnaround. Modify the slides and space the needles properly. Those are not bad needles even though they are just a bit lean angled. If you are running a stock motor they can be made to run just fine. All you would have to do is slide them back into the carbs and adjust the pilot screws. The job would cost you $56 including return postage. If you want better needles they are $50, but I don't think they would be required. Here is a comparison picture of a stock needle with one of my custom needles.

You are more than welcome to call me with any questions.
630 321 0580

As an experiment, it should do no harm to put a small thin washer underneath each jet needle clip to slightly raise its position and thereby enrichen the mid-range.

But this is shade-tree engineering at its best :lol: and equally likely to degrade instead of improving performance. However, it will be different. And if it runs like crap, at least you'll know the mid-range didn't need richening.

Meanwhile, the EPA ancestors will be rolling in their graves. :laugh:

Good Luck!

Edit -- posted before seeing otakar's
intervening post, which seems a very
reasonable no-nonsense alternative.

Patton wrote:

As an experiment, it should do no harm to put a small thin washer underneath each jet needle clip to slightly raise its position and thereby enrichen the mid-range.

But this is shade-tree engineering at its best :lol: and equally likely to degrade instead of improving performance. However, it will be different. And if it runs like crap, at least you'll know the mid-range didn't need richening.

Meanwhile, the EPA ancestors will be rolling in their graves. :laugh:

Good Luck!

Edit -- posted before seeing otakar's
intervening post, which seems a very
reasonable no-nonsense alternative.

There is nothing "shade tree" about shimming. That is SOP on a non adjustable needle. The problem is getting "shims" not washers. The positioning must be exactly the same on all four carburetors with in .003" Otherwise you will learn the true meaning of the word miss-synchronization. You have to know also how much to shim. Shimming would be one of the things I would do to his stock needles.

One foot note. I know guys buy BS34s on eBay all the time. Some of these come from GPz750s. Even though they are the same carburetor, the needles are ULTRA LEAN. Many guys just re-jet and think their troubles are over. In actuality the troubles are just beginning, because at highway speeds 3.5K-5K, the needle is so lean due to its light taper, you can fry your exhaust valves. And many times do. In this situation of the 750 carbs, the replacement of the needles is a MUST. If your needle is a 5CF** or similar you must change it.

I will be out of town for the fourth Holiday, starting Wednesday morning and be back on The following Tuesday. I will have intermittent access to a computer to check in.

Have fun. We have a cook out and fire works in the yard. Race pit bikes and four wheelers. Be carefull out there and watch for cagers. Roy

thomas ed wrote:

I really just want to learn to work on my carbs myself.
Also Im banned form his forum.

That's very funny! How did you get banned from his forum?...and you're a customer.

davel wrote:

thomas ed wrote:

I really just want to learn to work on my carbs myself.
Also Im banned form his forum.

That's very funny! How did you get banned from his forum?...and you're a customer.

I guess I said some things he didnt like. :blink: :dry:
Tom

Patton wrote:

As an experiment, it should do no harm to put a small thin washer underneath each jet needle clip to slightly raise its position and thereby enrichen the mid-range.

FYI, I had to tweak the needles on mine and those needles have five slots which are all about .030" apart. I found some small (#4 maybe?) steel washers for shimming that are about .015" thick which is a half slot each. A change of .030" (full slot) is a pretty big change on mine, you might try .015" increments. YMMV

As stated above: use a caliper to measure the thickness of the washers and make sure they are all the same to avoid getting them out of sync.