Handlebar switches

Getting there, it's winter here, where better to spend time on! Got the LH harness re-sheathed just because. First pic is of the deleted bits you won't be needing. Breadboard Hazard and that Orange/Green wire used for the Hazard flasher. Snipped the L and R leads, they just tie into knob signal selector breadboard Grey and Green within the harness sheath. More soon.       

Not sure if this is what you are looking for but I found this in my box of things. 
 

Awesome thank you, I have just gone down with Covid so will be off line a couple of days 😩

Crap, haven't heard the C word in quite a while! Take care..Please!! PoMo, what you're showing is for the 1976 KZ900. Completely different lower casting and horn rocker switch. The top half is the same though.

Whenever You're feeling better!! Got the LH switch completed. Just needs that "plastic plug" to cover-up the hole where the Hazard push/pull red knob was. Get Better!!     

In pursuit of completion, found something i'd either forgotten or just never had known before? I was just thumbing thru crap and ran across some interesting things! Directly applys to your application with harness thru bars but still maintaining full control of lighting. Seems the Z1R (1978) LTD1000 (1977) and Your 650 shared the same lower triangle-looking riser that holds the selector lever. The lower half remains the same, using the blank-out plastic bit or the triangle riser. So i bought a used fugly carcass just for that "riser". Thank-You for Helping me learn just a bit more!! And Hoping You'll kick the C! Wiring is Never a big deal..that's the easy..  And even though you were searching for these bits, Never Feel obligated to Buy my stuff! Heck, now with info cleaved you just might be able to source stuff local, now that you know what to look for. Take Care Rich.        

Brilliant, thank you, and it is great to continue to always learn new things!! Who would of thought that there are So many differences between what looks to be the same switches 🤪 happy to buy the stuff you have, as spares are always needed 👍 The l/h switch looks fab, thank you. 
The Covid is still biting hard, but at least I don’t feel like I have been hit by a logging truck now,. 
Thanks again for your support and awesome work,
Rich.

I've never known anyone slammed with a logging truck but do work on chainsaws that have been run-over by grapple tree collection trucks, ha. Well it seems i did have one of those triangle riser knob holders, a bag of re-zinced bits were hiding in the back of the cabinet. Not a total disaster buying that spare though, You said you wanted a couple units anyway. Soo take a couple slugs of NyQuil and get some rest! 

Thank you 👌 at least you are managing to find stuff buried in the back of the cupboard 🤪 
How would you like paying? I usually use PayPal friends and family.
Really looking forward to getting the bars looking correct and know it’s not just some aftermarket crap. You must get great satisfaction that something that you have put together will be riding around on the other side of the world 😁 and will look forward to sending you photos of the parts in situ. 
Chat soon,
Rich
 

No problem with that style of remittance but my wife has to do it, i'm a computer dummy. I've always sent my stuff abroad, rarely anyone here in the states cares about keeping it Original. Like You mentioned, aftermarket ones of these switches. They look completely different. Had a Friend in Christchurch, NZ. Back before the series of earthquakes 2010-11. Helped his racing club (CAMS) source parts here in the states.  

I know that the CAMS club is still operating and racing, they are in the South Island (Canterbury) and racing at Ruapuna last weekend.
 

Rich i wondering about that clubs existence, Great to hear them fellas are still battling each other on the tracks, Yea!! My Friend was "Kiwi Pete", hey..not a derogatory term, that was his initial intro      everytime he called me on the phone, ha. Anyway some progress. Seems i have only ONE still intact lower location locating casting pin. These lower locaters were by far more feeble then the ones located on the top half in different models. So.. You'll get one proper and one without..But. I'll include one upper with locating pin on the top half. Just use your original location and mark, do some measurements and drill a 4mm hole thru the top of bars or approx 5/32" twist bit. Hope You're out from underneath the logging truck, we all here contracted the influenza, ain't no fun!!