Handlebar switches

Hi, that sounds great👍 the main switch block to sort will be the right hand one, so will need the internal parts if possible please, and I am good with the painting, but how do you do the lettering, to keep them neat? I will pull the left switch block apart to remove the hazard switch and make a blanking plug. 
Did you get my text before you rang, if so I will text you my address etc.
Thanks again mate,
Rich.

Did not get a text but that's OK. How i do it. I have a bead-blaster, don't know if you do? But i soak the grime off first then blast. Paint, then fill in the features with Testors paint. I don't use any fancy paint pens, just fill and swipe with cosmetic wedges. It'll leave a haze but that's fine, just swipe with another wedge "damp" with mineral spirits. And swipe i really mean it, don't apply pressure when doing it, just lightly drag the damp wedge across it till feature paint is removed. Use the heal of your "clean hand" to remove any shiny mineral spirits. I can send You all the bits but generally all you'll need is the Knobs and push buttons for the horn/start. Horn and start plastic are the same. Eventhough i do have many variations of sheath sizing, you won't really require it if you don't pull the harness from the handlebar. All the work can be done with harness just as needed pulled from bar.   

Great info thank you. Can you sell me a complete right hand switch block for the in-handlebar wiring type with locating peg and a set of components to rebuild a right hand switch block? and if so, how can I pay you?  Basically , I would like a spare switch block after I have rebuilt the original.
Many thanks again for all of your help 👍
Rich.

Absolutely Rich no problem. I do need some info though please. Does Your RH switch lettering have a "PO" between the "ON-OFF" or merely a recessed circle as noted in one of the photos. Also, are your light always on? Easy to tell, no lever and a blanking plastic bit to cover the slot. And lastly, locating pin to handlebar. Are your handlebars hole on top or bottom. Noteworthy but no big deal, two different styles of the top "Off Run Off" button terminal/eyelet white plastic retainers. They interchange, one holds, one doesn't.     

Pic of that blanking bracket and note no casting tower to even use a selector lever.   

Some additional shite. Pulled out a Clymers KZ650 manual, just because. Note even in "77" Canada omitted the ability to control your lighting. This the tricky aspect of working on non-usa models i'm not familiar with.. Similar to headlights and any lighting equipment, different equivalent DOT agencies used completely different mandates/policies and components. Must be a dozen or so different headlights used throughout the world. And a lot of times ya can't appropriate a true fitment just by a "book". My old clymer states that a 1977 and 1978 KZ1000 LTD should have a knob to control lights but on the 1978 LTD in the states they are always on, go figure haha.            

Kinda off intent and a different beast but same premise. Doing a XS1100 1979 Special for a Friend here local. These had, Yamaha loved to complicate electrical with lots of innovative and sometimes over thinking. Too many relays and subsystems. These came with always on lightening and an alternator triggered relay. I converted to an older XS750 manual switchblock.      

Awesome, thank you. 
so this right hand switch block -
light switch has the button and lights are on or off,
there is the po in the casting but not painted so the switch stops at off or on,
the hole in the handlebar is on the underside, and
the off/run/off button stays/ holds in position where you put it.
I think that is everything answered 😁
As this bike was originally sold in the US, the headlight had to be changed when I got it as we drive on the left in New Zealand so the glass pattern and inner sealed bulb were designed for the right side. At least it was only one light for a bike.🤪
Many thanks again 👍
Rich.

Well it seems i might of been a little too Happy to serve initially. I checked thru about a hundred of the sets i have and came to a conclusion. I don't have a switchable lower thru handlebar RH switch half anywhere. Must be a unique item. I have plenty of the switchable lowers with post for switching knob but they all have the cut-out for external wiring. I have all the LH stuff though. And i suppose some "parts" for the RH side, just no correct lowers.   

What a learning curve 😂😂, at least you have now done a stock take!! 
I am happy to buy a r/h top with some spares to rebuild my original one, and as you have l/h units I will buy a complete one also with a set of spares if that is ok.
Many thanks for your box digging and help👍
Rich.

Oh i have plenty more then shown, ha. What a bloke could do is fabricate a cover, similar to the blanking plate for the Hazard to fill the oblong opening where external output is?? You really don't see this opening, it's tucked underneath next to the master cylinder. All the internal bits could still be used to complete the task too. Wouldn't be able to tell unless someone climbed underneath it, i have plenty of those then. Tell Your buddies to stop checking-out your undercarriage, hehe.  

😂😁😂, yes it is amazing what gets put away!!  I have been looking at different plastics that can be modified for the blanking plug, so looks fairly straightforward. Good old Dremel with be out again 🤪