Hydro clutch or pmc easy clutch kit?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationYou can find them on eBay if you watch. I got a nos one recently based on Dr gamma's recommendation.

I made an offer on the first one.
Steve

If anyone buys a used ball bearing clutch release, they can be taken apart and rebuilt with fresh grease.

Just be careful, those little 1/8th balls will bounce all over the place when you take it apart!!!!

Been there Done that!!!!

Okay, I am confused a bit, will the 13231-020 actuator work in the KZ-1000A1? The Ebay listing for the sold new one only shows for 550 cc, 650 cc and 750 cc. and of course it didn't help that the part number on the main title was incorrect (12231-020).

Rick H.

Rick H. wrote: Okay, I am confused a bit, will the 13231-020 actuator work in the KZ-1000A1? The Ebay listing for the sold new one only shows for 550 cc, 650 cc and 750 cc. and of course it didn't help that the part number on the main title was incorrect (12231-020).

Rick H.

BOLTS RIGHT IN!!!!!

I happen to have one all apart in a baggie. This is going to be a learning curve putting it all back together. At my age I ended up with the baby duck syndrome, every time I blink my eye I'm in a new world.

That’s easy to say in theory but in practice not practical at all if you ride lots of miles. I bought the hydra clutch (not from American klassix!) for the cost of a few clutch cables from Kawasaki. You shave a few mm from the clutch shaft and install, bleed and thereafter have a reliable clutch. Cables and changing them is not a big deal but I tend to do a lot of riding. One season I put 20k miles on my bike. I don’t want to have to lose time changing the cable in the middle of nowhere when I could be riding. I can’t say just how many times over the years this has happened. I get it that it works for you and that’s great but a cable is by no means the best solution to the problem. My hydra clutch fits right inside oem housing perfectly.

I don't doubt it, but I'm always amazed to read about cables breaking. I've put more than 62,000 miles on my bike and never had a problem with the stock Kawasaki cables. Maybe aftermarket cables are inferior or maybe the KZ1000 bikes are harder on stock Kawasaki cables than my KZ650. Ed

What kind of actuator do you have?
Steve

The 650 has the ball bearing style, the good one. I've had aftermarket cables last as long as OEM one's. It's all about cleaning and lubing it regularly. I have over 160,000 miles on my KZ650 and during that time it's broken one cable, the original OEM one. It snapped at the lever end at around 45,000 miles. It was my fault and I wasn't lubing it as I should have, I replaced it with aftermarket and it's still on the bike but I've taken good care of that one.
And yes Ed the 1000 cc bikes are harder to pull due to the sucky nylon acuator.

The Z1/KZ actuators have always been hard on cables and the hand. My mod helped but had trouble finding neutral at a stoplight.
Looks like they accepted my offer. Should have it in a few days. I know it's used and the issues that come with it but for $21.92 including shipping and tax it's worth the gamble. We'll see if it works.
GOD I'M GETTING CHEAP IN MY OLD AGE. :evil: :lol:
Steve