- Posts: 15343
- Thank you received: 2829
Hydro clutch or pmc easy clutch kit?
- 650ed
- Offline
- User
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- gordone
- Offline
- Sustaining Member
- Posts: 1376
- Thank you received: 67
Maybe these is the reason for snapping, water comes in here? What do you do to avoid? Have some three bond gasket inside to block the water?
These adjuster:
1981 KZ650-D4, with 1981 z750L engine (Wiensco 810 big bore).
Project:
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607213...sr-1981-z750l-engine
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Rick H.
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 840
- Thank you received: 241
Rick H.
Rick H.
1977 Kawasaki KZ-1000A1
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- gordone
- Offline
- Sustaining Member
- Posts: 1376
- Thank you received: 67
Rick H. wrote: Good point about the water that I didn't think about. Many motorcycles have a rubber boot that slides on the outer cable and covers the junction for the upper and lower cable housings. I wonder if there is something out there that will work for this.
Rick H.
Please notify if you find something!
1981 KZ650-D4, with 1981 z750L engine (Wiensco 810 big bore).
Project:
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607213...sr-1981-z750l-engine
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Nessism
- Away
- Sustaining Member
- Posts: 7465
- Thank you received: 2830
old_kaw wrote:
Nessism wrote: Steve,
Your top photo shows a ramp and ball type and the lower down photos show the helix.
The top pic is a helix too. You can see the tabs from the inner retainer.
Thanks for correcting me. My bad.
I had both types when rebuilding my 750 and chose to go with the ramp and ball version which was smoother. It's a little finicky to set up though in that you have to get the ramp in the right position during assembly or there will be no clutch. Going off memory but the arm on the mechanism needs to be at roughly 90 degrees to the cable coming through the cover.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- SWest
- Offline
- Sustaining Member
- 10 22 2014
- Posts: 23030
- Thank you received: 2759
650 Ed, I switched the clamps. Thank's for the heads up.
No arrow
This is what I bought
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Rick H.
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 840
- Thank you received: 241
gordone wrote:
Rick H. wrote: Good point about the water that I didn't think about. Many motorcycles have a rubber boot that slides on the outer cable and covers the junction for the upper and lower cable housings. I wonder if there is something out there that will work for this.
Rick H.
Please notify if you find something!
I kind of put this on the back burner until I was looking for something else. I did some checking and apparently these cable covers are actually called "gaiters". Makes sense I guess because that is what we called fork rubber covers at one time. Anyway if you nose around Ebay and the internet you will find several different types out there.
Also if anyone is contemplating purchasing an Easy Pull Clutch package from Z1- Enterprises they told me they should have them back in stock around the middle of April. Of course that is dependent on Corona 19 to a certain extent.
Rick H.
Rick H.
1977 Kawasaki KZ-1000A1
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- old_kaw
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 929
- Thank you received: 269
THIS is a cooked cable, fo-sure. lol
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000K1
Located in the Saint Louis, Missouri Area.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- gordone
- Offline
- Sustaining Member
- Posts: 1376
- Thank you received: 67
old_kaw wrote: Clutch cable problems in that area are not from water, instead from im-proper cable routing and exhaust heat. Normal cable lubing should prevent water to cable ingress.
THIS is a cooked cable, fo-sure. lol
Your photo is taken to low, the problem is where the wire from the clutch handel goes into the adjuster... not after the adjuster.
1981 KZ650-D4, with 1981 z750L engine (Wiensco 810 big bore).
Project:
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607213...sr-1981-z750l-engine
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- old_kaw
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 929
- Thank you received: 269
gordone wrote: I lubed my clutch wirer yesterday, and identify some corrosion after the adjuster midway (with the cylinder 1 exhaust pipe).
Maybe these is the reason for snapping, water comes in here? What do you do to avoid? Have some three bond gasket inside to block the water?
These adjuster:
I don't claim to be a rocket surgeon Gordone, but my pic is pretty close to where your pic was taken. Nether pic looks very close to the clutch lever to me.
If water is entering at the clutch lever, there are boots that can be had to cover up that area.
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000K1
Located in the Saint Louis, Missouri Area.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- gordone
- Offline
- Sustaining Member
- Posts: 1376
- Thank you received: 67
On my cable was water coming in here, please ser picture below, properly from pressure washing?
1981 KZ650-D4, with 1981 z750L engine (Wiensco 810 big bore).
Project:
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/607213...sr-1981-z750l-engine
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Scirocco
- Offline
- Premium Member
- Never change a running system
- Posts: 4210
- Thank you received: 2080
My 1975 Z 1 B 900 Project
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/605133...ears-deep-sleep-mode
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.