Hydro clutch or pmc easy clutch kit?

Scirocco wrote: If the clutch cable length and clutch acutator get his final adujstment i heat up a shrink tube and seal the non-water proof part.....(easy 2 Cent fix).

Good idea!
Will also protect the paint on the frame.

gordone wrote: My English is not exact enougf, full misunderstanding here

On my cable was water coming in here, please ser picture below, properly from pressure washing?

That cable is too close to the #1 exhaust pipe, so anything you may be able to put over it will soon melt / disintegrate from the heat. The heat also burns off any lubricant leaving the unprotected cable to oxidize internally and melts the internal nylon cable liners.

Don't sweat your englaze my friend. You are doing fine.

Haha, I need todo something with the routing

gordone wrote: Haha, I need todo something with the routing

I imagine your cable is already cooked like mine was after I installed my SS Delkevic header. (not double walled pipe)
Replace the cable and install a clip right where the cable goes between the #1&2 like my pic shows. BUT, even after cable replacement and re-routing, I think my cable is cooked again. Perhaps a small cable SS heat shield may be in order for this location.

Just put this on mine . Clip kept turning into the pipe. I am still waiting for the easy clutch to go back in stock.
If it doesn't when I get the time I will do the zx7r hydraulic clutch.

Nice clamp Bulletkz. I need to replace my clutch cable it was against the header and melted the outer casing. Nice upgrade. Will you share your source?

For those that may be interested, Z-1 Enterprises sent out a notice that they have the PMC clutch lever kits back in stock.

Rick H.

Rick H. wrote: For those that may be interested, Z-1 Enterprises sent out a notice that they have the PMC clutch lever kits back in stock.
Rick H.

Thanks Rick H, I jumped on the ball bearing style band wagon. Waiting on a new clutch cable to arrive.

It's a cheap flea bay chopper style part. Got it in chrome and sanded it down to look aluminum.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

Nessism wrote: I had both types when rebuilding my 750 and chose to go with the ramp and ball version which was smoother. It's a little finicky to set up though in that you have to get the ramp in the right position during assembly or there will be no clutch. Going off memory but the arm on the mechanism needs to be at roughly 90 degrees to the cable coming through the cover.

I have been looking into this and the ball and ramp actuator doesn't screw into the sprocket cover rather locks directly into the recess in the cover. I have this cover on my 750:


I can't see how the actuator would fit. Ed, did you use a different cover on your bike?