Top End Time?

Now that you did all that honing to the bores. I would get a dial bore gauge and check real carefully for egg, and taper in each bore. Bet you have a bunch of taper in those cylinders now!!!

A dial bore gauge will give you an exact measurement on the real condition of your bores!!!

I hope you are not using feeler gauges to check your piston to wall clearance!!!!!

Dr. Gamma wrote: Now that you did all that honing to the bores. I would get a dial bore gauge and check real carefully for egg, and taper in each bore. Bet you have a bunch of taper in those cylinders now!!!

A dial bore gauge will give you an exact measurement on the real condition of your bores!!!

I hope you are not using feeler gauges to check your piston to wall clearance!!!!!

My 750 cylinder had a fair bit of out of round and taper despite the engine only having 11k miles on it. I was surprised. The bore to piston clearance was higher than expected too, even on the bore areas the pistons don't touch. Only conclusion I can think of is that Kawasaki bored the cylinder pretty loose at the factory, and that maybe at least some of the out of round and taper was there since new.

I picked up an 810 kit on the cheap and plan to install it at some point but the engine runs great so I'm not in a big hurry. Going to do a compression check just for kicks do see where things are at but it seems strong. At any rate, I'm of the belief that at least some Kawasaki's left the factory with less than great cylinder machining work. In a case like that you may have to rebore to restore things properly. I'd measure everything very carefully to truly understand where everything is at.

P1010960 by nessism , on Flickr

Piston fit by nessism , on Flickr

I agreed with Nessism on the workmanship on some of Kawasaki's machining. Most of the factory valve jobs I looked at on new bikes left a lot to be desired. Even my Kz1000S1 road racer came with a valve job my cylinder head guy got a good laugh out of!!! Way too wide seats , and inconsistent placement of the seat in just four intake or exhaust valves.

On the old two stroke triples, the chamfer on the ports was no where near what you would wanted on a two stroke port. The old Gordon Jennings Two Stroke Tuners Handbook was the BIBLE to all of us two stroke racers. Just ask Kevin Cameron!!

On all my production road race bikes, I would put a couple hours on them. Then pull them apart, and go through everything in the motor. You always find plenty of things that needed to be massaged to get them near perfect!!!

Talking about valve seat machining... the seat's on that same 750 had very inconsistent widths. Can't remember if it was the intake side or exhaust, but the seat margin varied by literally a factor of 2x. I've got some Neeway cutters and cleaning up the inside cut took care of the problem. Only thing I can think of on that one is that Kawasaki pressed in the seat, cut the 45 and maybe the top 30, and didn't even touch the inside 60.

Aren't the seats cast in?
Steve

SWest wrote: Aren't the seats cast in?
Steve

No !

Always thought they were.
Steve

Dr. Gamma wrote: Now that you did all that honing to the bores. I would get a dial bore gauge and check real carefully for egg, and taper in each bore. Bet you have a bunch of taper in those cylinders now!!!

A dial bore gauge will give you an exact measurement on the real condition of your bores!!!

I hope you are not using feeler gauges to check your piston to wall clearance!!!!!

This licensed and insured, daily driver runs great. The bores were cleaned up with a 3 stone hone, not a flimsy flex ball hone. I really don't care if it has a little bit of egg shaped in the cylinders, wiseco pistons, ape studs, valve seats wider than necessary. (valves will seat better) or any of the other gizmo's everybody seems to think is a "upgrade" . Funny how I see others spending wads of money buying up all the neato parts, yet their ride is CONSTANTLY torn down and not running because of some freak occurrence or because some "upgrade" failed, broke or didn't go together properly.during assembly. My bike is a dependable and fast daily driver, that I have no qualms about lining up on any other sled on the road.

SWest wrote: Always thought they were.
Steve

These seats are pressed in.
Easily replaced when they are too worn.

A valve seat is visible in the pic below.

zed1015 wrote:

SWest wrote: Always thought they were.
Steve

These seats are pressed in.
Easily replaced when they are too worn.

Good to know.
Steve