Top End Time?

As i said before, start with a valve stem seal change, they leak first by the high temp to let them go hard and brittle as glass. A 60 minutes job with the right tools.

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daveo wrote: So much great advice...
At this rate, I may just have to take it with me.
Her
:lol:

Keep that bike. You know it's the right thing to do Dave.

Now that we have that foolishness put to rest, back to the oil consumption. Here are the viton valve seals I used last fall. I like the way it goes on the valve guide with a wide retainer ring.. that and the price was less than half of some of the other seals I considered.



I still have a few of these left over. I over ordered too many of these. (16) spare parts = good.



If you run across another good source (read affordable) of the 92055-1148 O-rings again... let me know. I ordered another set of new OEM head gaskets last week.

Scirocco wrote: As i said before, start with a valve stem seal change, they leak first by the high temp to let them go hard and brittle as glass. A 60 minutes job with the right tools.

Will Viton seals become hard and brittle in three years and twenty-thousand miles? My bike sits four-to-five months each year, and has never been overheated while riding it. I'd like to see a video of that specific valve seal change process, assuming it is performed while the engine is in the frame, and only the camshafts are removed.

I suspect that oil is getting past the rings. Is there a remedy besides ring replacement if cylinder walls are worn and/or glazed?

My rings had `20K when I replaced them last fall. The top compression rings had worn into a T shape. I've never seen that happen before.

The bike ran like a bat outa hell, and the oil consumption was reasonable, I only tore it down to fix the oil leak, but it did huff a little blue smoke when first starting it after it sat a few days.

I tried to focus on the top ring, wear but my phone always has different ideas other than what >i< want.



The bores looked acceptable, with only a slight upper and lower ring ridge. It cleaned up nicely with a high quality craftsman cylinder hone.



You can see the lower ring ridge on the left and the hole on the right cleaned up with minimal honing.

old_kaw wrote:

daveo wrote: So much great advice...
At this rate, I may just have to take it with me.
Her
:lol:

Keep that bike. You know it's the right thing to do Dave.

Now that we have that foolishness put to rest, back to the oil consumption. Here are the viton valve seals I used last fall. I like the way it goes on the valve guide with a wide retainer ring.. that and the price was less than half of some of the other seals I considered.

I still have a few of these left over. I over ordered too many of these. (16) spare parts = good.

If you run across another good source (read affordable) of the 92055-1148 O-rings again... let me know. I ordered another set of new OEM head gaskets last week.

Those appear to be the same Viton seals I had put in before installing the head in 2015.
The 8800 low-mile original valves were worn-in with the standard camshafts, before I started running the head with 84 ZX cams 20K miles ago.
I wonder if the valve stems had a ridge formed where the valves stopped before running the ZX cams, and if a ridge like that would prematurely wear out the seals?

Years ago I stuffed a couple sets of those 18.6 mm oval shaped O-rings away in a box for future use. Looks like I may need one of them before too long.

:S

Unless corrected, that dark ring wear area in the cylinder wall would be the place where oil would get past, and also cause new rings to wear prematurely?

daveo wrote: Unless corrected, that dark ring wear area in the cylinder wall would be the place where oil would get past, and also cause new rings to wear prematurely?

Correct. The upper and lower ring ridge areas. (for lack of a better term) is the area where the piston / rings change direction from the down stroke to the up stroke, and visa versa. The ones on my jugs are not that bad, and honed out with a light session. Also the ring end gap was on the tight side when I checked them, but I swear I do hear a slight piston rattle until the bike comes up to temp from a cold start. Nothing excessive, and my bike is ALWAYS set on "kill".




The hole on the left is not completely honed out yet in this pic.

That cylinder needs bored and new pistons

zukdave wrote: That cylinder needs bored and new pistons

That motor runs great. It's not getting bored anytime soon,

Those are the kind I used. This last time when I tipped the valves they were dark and a little harder than new. I'm sure I'm getting a little oil leak at least on one valve (judging by the plug) but not enough to replace them yet. The next time the head will need new valve guides and seat grind. I'm hoping I can go 1105 overbore if not new rings and a hone. Hell before I put in new valves and Viton seals (in 14) it was burning oil like a two stroke.:lol: Had to go down two steps on the pilots or the plugs would foul RIGHT NOW. I don't mind a little oil burning, in fact it seems to be slowing down. I'd love to do it all at once but for some, that's just not in the budget. :whistle:
Steve

old_kaw wrote: My rings had `20K when I replaced them last fall. The top compression rings had worn into a T shape. I've never seen that happen before.

The bike ran like a bat outa hell, and the oil consumption was reasonable, I only tore it down to fix the oil leak, but it did huff a little blue smoke when first starting it after it sat a few days.

I tried to focus on the top ring, wear but my phone always has different ideas other than what >i< want.

The bores looked acceptable, with only a slight upper and lower ring ridge. It cleaned up nicely with a high quality craftsman cylinder hone.

That groove on the 1 ring is supposed to be there!

z1kzonly wrote:

old_kaw wrote: The top compression rings had worn into a T shape. I've never seen that happen before.

I tried to focus on the top ring, wear but my phone always has different ideas other than what >i< want.

The bores looked acceptable, with only a slight upper and lower ring ridge. It cleaned up nicely with a high quality craftsman cylinder hone.

That groove on the 1 ring is supposed to be there!

I was wondering. That makes perfect sense. The NPR rings I replaced them with did not have that "Groove" I just assumed that it was wear, but then again, I can't imagine a ring wearing that badly on the sides, and not eating the mucho softer piston groove up too. The closest I can describe it is a cross section resembles a "T" shape.