KZP engine rebuild

In post 783777 with the pics showing your camshaft sprocket and chain orientation, the arrow appears to be pointing at the 43rd. pin.

:whistle:

Thanks Daveo, I will double check this afternoon. I hope it is that simple .

ThatGPzGuy wrote: Thanks Daveo, I will double check this afternoon. I hope it is that simple .

While fixated on your pictures, something seemed odd and off a little. Thought sure it was me until persistent curiosity and denial drove me into the manual before I went crazie. :S

Compare your pics with the manual illustration below. Note pin location on the chain link at each end.

Depending on the timing mark alignment, moving the exhaust cam clockwise one pin might just do it.

daveo wrote: In post 783777 with the pics showing your camshaft sprocket and chain orientation, the arrow appears to be pointing at the 43rd. pin.

:whistle:

Good eye Daveo!

It's a tooth off. The 2 groove cams are what are in my 81 kaw. The exhaust cam is retarded (?) a few degrees. The #4 intake and exhaust lobes should be pointing directly at each other with chain slack (pic shows stretched tight) between the sprockets as if the valve cover / top chain guide were installed. Cam timing on these motors has to be almost the most tricky part of engine assembly. Care must also be taken to make sure the chain is fully seated in the sprockets. I had to install the chain tensioner loosely, then slowly rotate the crank clockwise on the ignition end to make sure it all lined up and seated properly, with slack for valve cover installation. An easy mistake to make.

eBay isn't the only thing you are good at Daveo (should be SUPER Dave!).

Better?
Seems to be running much better now but I need to do a road test to be sure. Vacuum still low at only 10 cmHg.

old_kaw wrote:
Good eye Daveo!

:blush:

ThatGPzGuy wrote: Better?
Seems to be running much better now but I need to do a road test to be sure. Vacuum still low at only 10 cmHg.

Are the valves adjusted within spec, and the carb slide diaphragms and manifolds in good shape? Other than that, I'd be clueless. :blink:

Valves are in spec. Diaphragms are good. It's across all four cylinders. I'm hoping it will improve as the rings seat. It only has 24 miles on a new top end.
I'm just happy I can ride it. Thanks for your help,
Jim

What do you have the RPM's set to when synchronizing the carbs?

ThatGPzGuy wrote: Valves are in spec. Diaphragms are good. It's across all four cylinders. I'm hoping it will improve as the rings seat. It only has 24 miles on a new top end.
I'm just happy I can ride it. Thanks for your help,
Jim

2 years is a long time to mess with a repair, Jim. You are fortunate to have a "fleet" of bikes to ride while fixing this. My bike is my parts runner if /whenever my truck dies, and serves as my PTSD therapy. I forget about EVERYTHING at the top of 2nd gear.

When I did the rings (oil leaks) in my bike last fall, it did not seem to run right at first. I suspected the cam timing or rings / valves, so I tore it down again, ruining the new OEM head gaskets in the process. No valve leakage using gas but Compression was low on #2 compared to the other 3 cylinders. You could almost hear a slight skip when cranking i too. I did not find the cams out of time, but I did find an oil ring with an overlapped expander ring on one hole. Those rings are tricky little devils to get into the holes without popping out of place. I gave up on making a makeshift ring compressor and after assuring myself that they were all in proper position, while I popped the jugs down onto the pistons CAREFULLY with my fingernails. There is a nice chamfer at the bottom of the sleeves to assist. Even the OEM ring compressor lets go of the rings at the bottom of the sleeve, so the chamfer has to be capable of taking over on compressing the rings into the cylinders. Fingers were crossed for sure.

I had to abandon this idea and pop the rings in with my fingernails.


But of course I ass-u-me, hardly no one actually owns all of the special tools shown in the service manuals, but a good understanding of how things work, and an ability to substitute all the high $$ special tools is a must. I would rather rig up a makeshift tool, rather than dropping my bike off ANYWHERE, (not happenin) only to find out they were WORSE at fixing my bike than I am, and paying them too? I'd rather buy the tools, if need be.



And lacking another set of new head gaskets, I hosed down what appeared to be still serviceable head gaskets with spray on copper kote, then put the head back on. I know that's a big ole, no-no to most, but they are still on it and holding cylinder pressures, but it has developed another good old oil seepage on the left front o-ring AGAIN.. which was the main reason for the tear down in the first place. I am gathering up the parts to go back in right now, but it runs sooooo freaking strong that the oil seepage is of minimal concern. I also notice seepage from the brand new OEM cam end plugs, and even at a few of the solid, driven in oil galley plugs from time to time. The rotella T-6 full synthetic is some hard oil to contain.



Copper anti-seize on the stud threads, and copper kote spray sealer on the used gaskets.. It is just dripping with copper. lol At this point the bike was down for almost a month doing the mail order thing.. suuure is slow. I get anxious when I can't get my therapy. :lol:



I hadn't intended this to become some life history, rather to encourage you not to overthink the situation, and put a few miles on it, if you are confident everything went together properly.

I may drill out my solid oil galley plugs at some point, cut some threads, and install set screws the next time I pull the head. who knows?

May be a good time to replace the old stretched out cylinder head studs with a APE hardened set. Cured my problem of corner O-ring leaks with 42lbs. torque.
Not a drop or seep since.

daveo wrote: May be a good time to replace the old stretched out cylinder head studs with a APE hardened set. Cured my problem of corner O-ring leaks with 42lbs. torque.
Not a drop or seep since.

As usual, you are probably right Dave. Those 37 year old studs are actually supposed to act like a "spring" with proper torque, but after that many heat cycles, I assume the spring action has sprung.
Just some NOS stockers would also probably cure the seeps too. The automotive "torque to yield" head-bolts get replaced almost every time the heads are off. Not so much on these motors... It is ~$150 for studs, from what I see advertised.

but GREAT! NOW I have something else to buy! lol

The left side 6mm bolt threads are hurt too (installed longer bolt), which is also not helping the seepage. I am going to helicoil both, along with a bunch of cam bearing cap threads too, the next time the head is off. I had to repair a cap thread the last time, and yet another torque session on them is not going to go well... I just have that feeling.