KZP engine rebuild

Those chains are tough. I'd put it together and ride the piss out of it.
Steve

I would but it runs like crap at anything below 3K rpm.

Might be a silly question or two because I did not read the entire thread all at once.

Have you checked timing with a timing light?

How old is your gas?

Z1Driver wrote: Might be a silly question or two because I did not read the entire thread all at once.
Have you checked timing with a timing light?
How old is your gas?

Yes, it's the stock ignition and not adjustable. I put a light on it anyway and it fires at the F for cylinders 1 and 4
Fresh gas

Well, I am back at it. I took a break to work on my café bike and now that it is about done time to turn my attention back to the Cop Bike.
Here is where we are:
It starts up fairly easily but sounds rough. When I pull the plug wires off cylinders #2 and #3 there is no change in the way the engine runs at all and there is a good strong spark coming from the end of the lead. Exhaust pipes for cylinders #1 and #4 heat up quickly, #2 and #3 are much, much slower to heat. Riding it is possible but there is no power until it hits 3K RPM. It does not run well off choke.
I swapped the coils but there was no change. Swapped plugs in #3 and #4 with no change. Plugs for #2 and #3 are wet with fuel.
Swapped carbs from my excellent running GPz750 with no change.
Compression is good and even in all cylinders.
Leak down test shows all is well in all cylinders.
Tested the pulsing coils. All good.
I'm stumped.

Actually it has exactly the same symptoms that my KZ1100 Spectre did after I had the carbs rebuilt (bad mistake and took 3 months of farting about to perfect) (had never ridden it when I purchased from USA - before rebuilding everything except engine)

What I found was a series of issues that all had to be eliminated -
1. Float levels all over the place
2.Wrong jet sizes for the standard air box
3. Stripped thread on number 3 carb calibration screw (it was faster to replace that body off ebay)
4. No 4 calibration screw itself had a stuffed thread - so the locking nut wasnt holding and the carb setting was shiftting quickly. Calibrate carbs.
Plus (because the above alone were not enought to get smooth running) new coils, new pulsing coils (you should have seen the mess someone had made of the pulsing coils plate with holes drilled everywhere - a kawasaki one from partzilla has exact retaining holes - no need for adjustment - just screws on), new ignitor. Now it runs perfectly at all speeds. BUT it gets hot - so working on that one now. (Of course I should have done the engine too - but we live in hope dont we ? )

Thanks gregoryzim, Before I rebuilt this thing the carbs were working fine. I cleaned them before I reassembled the motor and a couple of times afterward. I also ran my GPz carbs with no change. Might be time to revisit the carbs... again if only to eliminate that possibility.
Jim

I think this motorcycle may be possessed.
I pulled the carbs from the great running GPZ750 and put them on the cop bike. Then, I put the cop bike carbs on the GPz. The results are puzzling to say the least.

The cop bike starts right up but now, cylinders 1,2,3 are fine and four does not work. I can pull the plug wire on #4 and there is no difference in the engine running. And yes, the plug lead shows a healthy spark.

On the GPz, it starts a little harder and won't idle off choke but all cylinders heat evenly with the cop bike carbs.

The only thing I changed before this experiment was to replace the battery in the cop bike. The fact there was some change swapping carbs leads me to believe I am dealing with carb issues.

I have just finished solving a long line of carb issues and I am convinced these carbs are the most easily unintended altered things ever. In the end after putting correct jets in, new pulsing coils, coil and igniter (different issues) - it all came down to carbs as the bike just would not run smoothly and first there was a vacuum leak - then there were two things I discovered with my carbs. One was balancing them via vacuum gauges does not seem to set the butterflies properly because on this set no 3 carb (with all the throttle cable stuff attached) doesn't want to balance properly. So in the end I solved it manually - but not roughly but very exactingly with no tolerances between butterflies. I took the carbs out (again!) and used a G clamp that is adjusted by a trigger rather than a thumb screw. (carpenter type that slides up a rail - fixed flat ends not the wobbly pivoted original type that don't work to do this)

I put one end under the throttle cable end stop on the carb and the other end over the top of the carbs and seated behind the carb against the rail that runs between the carbs. Then because its trigger adjusted I could move the butterflies in unison in tiny incremental s until I got a perfect opening on no 2 carb to suit the measuring rod (5mm diameter) I wanted to use as the spacer tester.

Because the G clamp is fixed and therefore holds the butterflies open in a fixed position without any movement - I could then adjust each carbs adjustment screw to move its butterfly exactly so the testing rod fitted perfectly under the butterfly between the butterfly and the carb body. After tightening off the lock nuts on each screw I took off the clamp and opened and shut the butterflies with a sharp snap several times and then re measured - no movement at all - put it all back on bike - perfect result.

Second thing which needs re adjusting every time you do something else I discovered - is adjust the fuel air mix screws again and again until right. I had to take out the plugs at least 5 times over a period of 2 months before I got a perfect color and smooth running. Only achieved final result yesterday . sounds and runs great.

Yeah, I'm back to carbs. I keep seeing Nessim's posts about carb cleaning in my head so I am unganging them and putting them thru the ultrasonic cleaner. If that doesn't work I'll probably push it into the lake.
Thanks for the input.
Jim

back on this after getting my café bike done and the H1 back on the road.
Just double checking the timing. How does this look? The timing mark is T for 1-4, the exhaust sprocket is a little high but the intake sprocket lines up just fine and there are 44 pins between them.

I can't believe I am still farting around with this...
Carbs are sorted. All pipes heat up pretty evenly. Starts right up on choke but has a rough idle. Here is the latest symptom:
Went to sync the carbs and the cheap dial gauges showed very low vacuum across all four at around 4 mm. I chalked up the low reading to cheap gauges and invested in a Morgan Carbtune Pro. Same result. At idle the bars don't even move. With a little revving I can get the bars to show some movement (~15 cc) at around 3K. That's also where the bike seems to run somewhat normal although still underpowered.
Am I back to timing? I had the head skimmed to remove the warpage but I don't think the machinist took off enough to cause issues with timing. I have the sprockets lined up correctly and I get a fairly decent compression readings on an engine with only 26 miles on it.
Help.