10% Ethanol

In my comings and goings, I've always used 91 octane (or higher) gas, and in my area that usually also means non-ethanol. Now if I were to go to an area that has 91 or higher octane, but also has that "up to 10% ethanol" crap in it...will I be OK to completely refill my tank?

I know the higher-octane should be used pretty much in all motorcycles to avoid knock/detonation, but I haven't heard a whole lot on the ethanol mix-in. Should 10% ethanol mix just be generally avoided, is it OK to use in a pinch, or will using it leave me stranded?

I used the 91 the first few months I had the bike back on the road. A friend said it was a waste of money to use regular. I've been doing it since. Other than the purple hue to the plugs, no problems. I don't have CV carbs or petcock diaphragms.
Steve

Although it probably is not necessary, I've always used premium fuel in my bike. Here in the socialist state of MD we have been stuck with 10% ethanol gas for 10 years. My bike did not need any changes to cope with the ethanol laced fuel, although peak performance has been slightly affected. Also, since ethanol laced fuel became standard fuel economy has been reduced for all vehicles. This is due to the fact that E10 gasoline provides right around 2% less energy per gallon (111,836 BTU per gallon) than regular, non-ethanol gasoline (114,100 BTU per gallon). Of course, MD fuel taxes are charged based on the number of gallons purchased, so it is to the state's fiscal advantage for consumers to burn more fuel per mile. Ed

swest wrote: I used the 91 the first few months I had the bike back on the road. A friend said it was a waste of money to use regular. I've been doing it since. Other than the purple hue to the plugs, no problems. I don't have CV carbs or petcock diaphragms.
Steve

I'm confused. Are you using the 10% ethanol mix or not?

I think I heard that ethanol corrodes stuff or gums up stuff.
Found this useful site for those looking for ethanol-free gas: www.pure-gas.org/
So if you want to try some out sometime and have a go with it.

None close by. It does tarnish new jets quickly I can tell you that. I'll bet the rubber parts will fail sooner.
Steve

Smokey, what octane does your owners manual say to use?

My 78 kz1000 with a stock engine a stock air box and Jardine 4 into 2 runs best on 87 octane at 600 feet + - above sea level and 85 octane in high elevation

I have used 89 octane in the past on very hot days when my engine started pinging but I now think that the pinging was brought on by running the stock jets ,(pilot and mains) which where too small and part of Kawasaki's attempt to boost gas efficiency/ MPG's in 78

The bike was running too lean and hot

A couple years ago I stepped up the jets a couple of sizes as per Wire George's suggestion and still get around 45 MPG maybe a little more,
The bike is running a lot cooler and I have not used 89 Octane since even in this oppressive heat wave.

I gave up on trying to find alcohol free gas and have ran 10% for over 35,000 miles in 4 + years and what I find is the gas lines need to be replaced every so often because they get hard, the petcock selector gasket has been replaced a couple of times due to leaking, and I have rebuilt the carbs and replaced the O rings as part of the processes, (first deep cleaning since it was new)

It screws with rubber parts in the fuel system, not a big deal IMO
just part of life

A very old thread on octane
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/227870-fuel-o...l=component&type=raw

bluej58 wrote: Smokey, what octane does your owners manual say to use?

Well my compression is only 8.9:1, so using 87 octane should be fine, but around here getting non-ethanol in 87 octane is tough to come by. Here in Wisconsin you'll see 91 octane free of ethanol in a lot of places....in fact Wisconsin has more places to buy pure gas than any other state it turns out (according to that pure-gas.org site anyways). Good to know though it'll run on that 10% ethanol crap in case of emergency. Feel sorry for you guys stuck in ethanol hell.

However that being said, when Kawasaki built these bikes they were never designed for ethanol because the idea didn't exist then. So my conclusion from all this, for me, try to use pure gas/non-ethanol gas as much as possible....and maybe get a new set of pistons to up the compression and make more use of the 91 octane gas LOL :laugh:

It does absorb moisture. :whistle:
Steve

650ed wrote: Although it probably is not necessary, I've always used premium fuel in my bike. Here in the socialist state of MD we have been stuck with 10% ethanol gas for 10 years. My bike did not need any changes to cope with the ethanol laced fuel, although peak performance has been slightly affected. Also, since ethanol laced fuel became standard fuel economy has been reduced for all vehicles. This is due to the fact that E10 gasoline provides right around 2% less energy per gallon (111,836 BTU per gallon) than regular, non-ethanol gasoline (114,100 BTU per gallon). Of course, MD fuel taxes are charged based on the number of gallons purchased, so it is to the state's fiscal advantage for consumers to burn more fuel per mile. Ed

While that is true, if your bike is tuned for it shouldn't be a big deal. I'm going to do a flex tune in my car. Running E85 car will actually have much more power and run cooler tuned for it. Not the end of the world, just burn more gas.

Thats what sucks though. :pinch:

swest wrote: It does absorb moisture. :whistle:
Steve

Yup, bad gas mileage too. :pinch:
Steve

Unless you go to a general aviation airport and buy 100 octane low lead, that's all our choices here in Colorado too.
I've been told numerous times that running your ignition timing a little less total advance (all in at 2500rpm-2800rpm), will give you more horsepower with those 10% ethanol fuels.
My automotive engineer buddies back in Detroit say about 4 to 6 degrees less total advance is good.
So what does that mean?
I don't know but pushing the question a little further had numbers told to me like 34-36 degrees total advance.
I've been running my KZ1000a with the "all in mark" strobe light checked at 3000 rpm, a couple thin MM retarded.
I don't really notice any difference.... HA ha.