strange noise

Ok I've got it off can only move freely by spring when I take the wedge out.

So the bolt is not holding it?
Steve

When I put the valve cover on I made sure there was slack in the chain by pushing down on it from the top with the wedge off. Then covered it. Ten added the wedge.

swest wrote: So the bolt is not holding it?
Steve

The bolt is holding it. It isn't shooting out.. You can see where the bolt pressed on it

That might be it. The stock bolt doesn't hold it, it just keeps the plunger from coming all the way out. Put the bolt in so it will move freely all the way but stops when it reaches the end of it's travel.Put it back on, then the cap. It might take up the slack as it should.
Steve

It won't move when the wedge and cap are on. Is that how it should be?

You don't put them on until after the adjuster is on the engine. Put the wedge in then the cap They are meant to keep the plunger from going back. (loose)
Steve

Put the tensioner back without the cap and wedge.
This will allow the plunger to move back when it meets the slipper and not over tension the cam chain.
Once bolted up fit the wedge ,spring and cap.
Rotate the engine by hand a couple of times to take up any slack.
If it's working correctly the chain will tension automatically.
If the cam chain becomes excessively worn the tensioner will run out of travel and the cam chain will no longer be tensioned.
To check this, remove the pegged 6mm bolt and replace it with a longer normal 6mm that will nip against the plunger locking it in position and then remove the cap and spring.
Remove the tensioner assembly and measure the length the plunger protrudes.
Now refit the pegged bolt and measure the tensioners maximum travel.
If the measurements are the same you have run out of tensioner travel and need to fit a new cam chain and or other cam chain associated parts.

Try this...

Remove the wedge and spring, and reinstall that screw and lock nut. You only want that screw to go in far enough to keep the plunger from coming all the way out. With the screw and lock nut set you should be able to push the plunger in and out, and it should spring out until the screw hits the end of the slot in the plunger. If the plunger works like this you are okay to reinstall the tensioner to the engine again. Just wait to get the unit installed before installing the cross wedge, spring and cap.

Well that seemed to have helped a lot !doesn't seem as loud. Nor as pronounced it can ide at a grand without sounding horrible..it makes a little bit of noise but nothing like it did. Should I ride as is or continue my journey to figure it out??

That's hard to say without hearing it. Sounds like you're on the right track.
Steve

I dont think the chain has stretched too much after messing with the tensioner, it was springy going back on the bike. Couple questions guys... My 550 has a tensioner very similar, but without the lock bolt. Can I replace my current tensioner with one like that? And two, I should probably order the correct adjuster bolt, right?