strange noise

But... I don't have a timing light lol

Steady alignment of F mark at idle rpm helps rule out possible advancer issue such as weak springs failing to hold the weights closed at idle rpm.

Some automotive suppliers such as AutoZone may loan out a timing light free of charge.
Perhaps with the brand new set of spark plugs being purchased.

Good Fortune!

A too loose cam chain may produce excessive valve train noise, even with perfect carb sync and correct valve clearances.

The service manual will cover operation of the cam-chain adjuster, and any owner-involved adjustments and setup of the cam-chain adjuster that might be applicable to the model at hand.

As known, valve clearances, cam chain tightness, ignition timing, spark quality, carb cleanliness, and fuel levels, should be addressed prior to carb sync (which is the final step in tuning).

A properly tuned engine in good condition will usually have the minimum valve train noise at idle rpm.

Good Fortune!

Pic of the cam chain adjuster?
Steve

This is the tensioner

I've also noticed since syncing the carbs, it seems that the noise doesn't quite become a problem until after a couple minutes of running most times.

Your tensioner has the wrong adjust bolt. The proper bolt has a reduced shank tip like shown here... www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/kawasaki/KP-92001-1155.html



Actually, this bolt doesn't adjust anything. It's just a guide pin. I'd pull it out and make sure it's not blocking the movement of the tensioner plunger. And speaking of the plunger, you do realize that it's necessary to remove the cross wedge and spring before the valve cover is installed? Some people don't know this and they wind up over tensioning their cam chain.

Hope this helps.

That could be. The bolt Ed is showing is to prevent the plunger from shooting out when the tensioner is removed from the engine. The bolt and lock nut may be keeping the plunger from doing it's job. Hopefully you didn't break any of the guides putting the valve cover on. I'd take it off and inspect it.
Steve

Take the whole tensioner off?

Yes and see if it will move freely when that bolt is loosened. If that's the case, the chain might have had enough slack as to not damage anything putting the cover back on. Hoping.
Steve

I've got the carbs pulled off, this doesn't seem to be the same tensioner as in the manual... Anything to it about getting off? Or pretty straight forward...just remove the bolts? Should i Take out wedge,spring and cap too?

Take it off as a unit. Don't turn the engine. Open it up and see what you got. Take pics too.
Steve