Z1000mk2 Exhaust port damage around valve guide

  • SWest
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09 May 2016 07:36 #725311 by SWest
Wow. All you can do is cut along the hex to the flange holding the clutch all the way around now. Then you'll cut a couple slices on the hub being careful not to hit the crank. PLS take pics and post them as you go. :unsure:
Steve

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09 May 2016 07:50 #725313 by nuwonder
So first i cut along the red lines all the way up to s. clutch (no worries if i hit it, i'm getting a new one as this looks busted) and after that carefully along orange lines towards the crank?

-Sami
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09 May 2016 07:54 #725314 by SWest
Don't cut to the crank until you have the hub exposed. I'm going to post a pic of the back side of the rotor.
Steve

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09 May 2016 08:26 - 09 May 2016 08:29 #725321 by SWest
You can call me if you need to Send me a PM and I'll give you my #
Steve



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Last edit: 09 May 2016 08:29 by SWest.

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09 May 2016 08:58 #725329 by SWest
Damn cam. Have to format it every time I use it again,
Just checked you profile. A call ain't going to happen.
Here's a clip.
Steve

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09 May 2016 10:42 #725350 by nuwonder
Thanks Steve, thats a huge help right there! I'll do the cutting tomorrow, had to live in a Honda (cb500 four) world the rest of this evening :)

-Sami

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09 May 2016 10:56 #725353 by SWest
Those were nice bikes too. Handled better that the 750 and almost as much power.
Steve

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13 May 2016 04:54 #726082 by nuwonder
Okay I'm at the hub now from one side. I was thinking now to switch to sanding disc and sand off material until metal turns to blue which will mean it's so thin that i'm nearing the crank.

Obviously s. clutch is goner :)

-Sami
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13 May 2016 05:44 #726089 by SWest
Bad idea. Given enough time it will all turn blue. Look at your old pics. The slices on the face are almost to the crank. I'd cut 90* at the end of the cuts so I could see the end of the crank. Before you do that, try the bolt on the center again. With all that cutting and heat. It might come off. I hope so. What a nightmare.
Steve

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13 May 2016 05:47 #726091 by SWest
Going back over your pics, did you use a 18mm bolt or tool the press off the rotor?
Steve

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13 May 2016 07:27 #726122 by nuwonder
Well, all I gotta say I wish I don't have to do this again EVER.

But it's off now. Minimal marks on the crank. just one tiny contact mark at the very end of the taper. It shows in the picture in the orange circle.
Rotor just didn't move until I sanded it very very close to the crankshaft and put a chisel to it and tapped chisel with hammer. Then it just freed itself and slided off with zero drama :D Unbeliveable.
Looks like my crank is non-key version. Will it need special rotor too or is the keyed rotor ok? I was checking one from Z1 Power Uk, this one: www.z-power.co.uk/merchantmanager/produc...php?products_id=1888

Everything else looks ok too, but i hit that one washer with cutting disc so I gotta replace that too.

PHEW!

-Sami
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13 May 2016 07:37 #726124 by SWest
One of our members showed that one. I asked the seller if it had the magnets in it and he gave me a vague answer. Didn't say yes. You should ask before buying. No key in the shaft? 8mm bolt or 10mm?
Steve

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