Z1000mk2 Exhaust port damage around valve guide

I installed 81 bigger rotor, stator and cover on my 80 KZ1000

car5car wrote: I installed 81 bigger rotor, stator and cover on my 80 KZ1000

Doesn't apply in this case.
The later MK2/ST and the J have the same taper.
The earlier motors have a smaller taper.
It's the same angle but smaller diameter.

Didn't the later motors have HiVo chains and different teeth on the crank? That's why I asked about a pic on the right hand side. A late motor with a early crank or a late crank with a early rotor? :huh:
Steve

nuwonder wrote: The difference between the pre 79 Z1000 and the MK2 alternator you pointed out got me thinking can it be possible that previous owner rebuilt older style alternator setup with rotor, stator and new cover to newer mk2 crank and that's why it didn't have proper clearance? Can it even be done? Or is that crank indeed from older KZ1000 and there is some other reason why the stator got crapped?
So, what's the next move? I know I gotta replace the stator but how about the rotor? And how can I check I indeed have the old crank or new crank so I know what stuff I have to start looking for?

You either have an earlier bottom end or earlier crank installed.
No real big deal just treat the engine as an early one for ordering parts ,especially the cam chain which is 2 links shorter ( 122 links) than the MK2.
The MK2 crank has a larger alt taper as well as 1 extra tooth on the cam chain drive but ignore that for now .
The MK2 taper is the same angle as the earlier motor but of a larger diameter.
The early rotor will just about sit on the later crank but it won't sit back as it should and the starter clutch won't engage with the starter gear without nearly dropping out of it's sprag rollers and you also won't get the outer cover on as the rotor bolt will hit the inside face.
Looking at your pics the clutch gear sits nicely on the starter gear with no gap between it and the back of the starter clutch .
This indicates that you have the correct crank for the alternator.
The binding issue between the rotor and stator can indicate that the rotor and been spinning loose on the crank.
You need to get the rotor off to see whats going on there.
As Plummen has stated you could have a hybrid crank with later centre pin and other possibilities.
There is scope for much modification and reverse engineering with these engines which is why they are still so popular.
Best to keep it simple for now and see what the cam sprocket tooth count and rotor removal reveals.

Sage advice.
Steve

swest wrote: Didn't the later motors have HiVo chains and different teeth on the crank? That's why I asked about a pic on the right hand side. A late motor with a early crank or a late crank with a early rotor? :huh:
Steve

The HYVO chains are in the later non kickstart engines - 998cc 'J' and 1089cc GPZ 1100's.
The early kicker engines were all roller chain with the MK2/ST (square cam cover) having 2 links extra (124) than the early 903cc and 1015cc's 122 links.
This coincided with an extra tooth on the MK2 cranks and 2 more teeth (32) on the cam sprockets.

Good to know, thanks.
Steve

Okay had finally a little time to put into this bike and what do you know, I got stuck immediately when I thought to remove the rotor. That thing is STUCK! I mean it's _very_ tightly in there and seems like it doesn't wanna come off.

I tried few pullers, which screw into the rotor and tapped them with hammer but nothing. Tried to heat it up a little and again, nothing. Then I figured that what the hell, i'm gonna get a new rotor and starter clutch anyway so I might just as well break this and jammed screwdriver between rotor and starter clutch and started giving the rotor some whacks with the hammer. Nothing. Apart from some material chipping off the damn thing, I don't think it moved even a fraction of inch.

Before I get really into the business with it, I thought to ask you guys are my pullers even any good with that thing? Manual says to insert the ball bearing in and screw then the bolt, but I don't have suitable ball bearing and these pullers have correct thread and the point of both pullers look like they would nicely contact with the angled end of the crankshaft without damaging the crankshaft inner thread. But as I said, I'm not really sure. I included pics of the pullers and the rotor.

Also noticed that the shaft insert for smaller starter clutch gear is a little broken, in the inner case. I marked it with red arrow in one of the pics. Is this gonna give me any grief? I reckon the gear assembly is still pretty tight as the shaft goes into both inner and outer cover, so it shouldn't move in there too much.

Also, checked my piston markings and couldn't find anything except A and the arrow on them, so I don't really know what rings I should order if any. Both top and second ring are identical with NO markings what so ever, so that's a bit weird.

-Sami

STOP there are three #8 allen head bolts holding it together. Use the flat one with a 3/8" ball bearing you get at the hardware store. The pistons look like Wiseco's 10.25/1. Need better pics to tell for sure. You'll need to have that boss repaired by welding.
Steve

Don't forget the voltage regulator controls the output of the alternator. I would be suspicious of the regulator before the alternator after the ignition melted.

Thanks guys, new regulator is already on the shopping list Any recommendations with that, by the way? I thought to go with Rick's Motorsport one, they've usually proved pretty good on other projects.

Steve, what do you mean by those bolts? I'm confused, do I have to undo some bolts before going in with the puller? Didn't see any bolts and manual didn't say anything about those.

Guess I need that ball bearing then. It's weird tho, Kawasaki's own puller looks like that flat one I got and isn't it supposed to work without the bearing?

-Sami

nuwonder wrote: Thanks guys, new regulator is already on the shopping list Any recommendations with that, by the way? I thought to go with Rick's Motorsport one, they've usually proved pretty good on other projects.

Rick's makes a good stator but I wouldn't buy their R/R. Without a doubt the best R/R's out these days are the SERIES type since they don't stress your stator. Purchase a SH775 as sold by Polaris and the matching harness from Triumph. Cheaper than a Ricks and vastly superior to any shunt type RR.