Z1000mk2 Exhaust port damage around valve guide

The bolts are on the back side of the clutch holding it to the rotor. Your manual should have that in it.
Steve

Well all I can say is that it's not coming off with any puller. It was already started to damage the crankshaft inner threads and the thing still didn't come off. I think I gotta make some cuts to it to get it off. Any advice on that? If I just can get it to loose some of the tension it should pop off.

Do you have a actual thread in puller bolt? It should be hardened. I don't think your model has a keyway so it might be spun welded to the crank. A air impact on the bolt should be able to free it up.
Steve

I had a hardened threaded puller bolt, put air impact gun on that and noticed it started to push into the crankshaft threads so that the crankshaft bolt wasn't going in anymore so had to stop that. Impossibly tight that rotor, lots of swearing with it

So I discarded the puller bolt and made few cuts to the rotor with angle grinder and cutting disc, being very careful not to cut to the crankshaft but couldn't get it off yet. My next move is to go get some cold spray and first heat the rotor very hot and then spray cold spray directly to the crank through the hole. Maybe that will do the trick.

Did you try with the ball bearing in it?
Steve

No i haven't got the ball bearing, However i have the (hardened) puller which connects to the crankshaft end exactly like a ball bearing would but I still haven't got it out. Tried the air bolt gun with that puller and even that didn't work. Tried with heating the rotor and cold spraying the crank and then puller+gun, but nothing.

Wondering do I have to dismantle the whole engine so I can remove crank just to get that damn rotor off. Running out of ideas here. If I have the crank off, what would be best method then?

And yes, I guess I _have_ to try to ball bearing before that

Man, sometimes simplest job turns out to be the hardest. Still not hating my Kz1000 though

The ball makes it easier to turn the bolt as long as it's not too big or too small and mung up the threads.
Steve

Weird, the 3/8" ball bearing was way too small and just went inside the crank.

What if i just insert a bolt which is thin enough to connect with the inside end of the crankshaft and use another bolt/puller against that?

So you cut the center steel hub in the rotor? That's why you can't get it off. It's spreading and you can't get enough tension on it. 30 years ago I had one spin weld itself to the crank. I was riding and the bike slowed down to a stop like there was a brake in the engine. I played hell getting the cover off with the carpenter tools I had and not breaking it. I wound up slicing all the aluminum parts off and the magnets. Once I was down to the hub, I sliced it as much as I could while not hitting the clutch. A couple bops with a hammer and it broke off. The crank taper had a couple nicks in it from the grinder but I was able to put a new $300 rotor and key back on.
You've destroyed that thing and if you're not careful, you'll wind up having to buy a new crank too.
Good luck.
Steve

Okay so basically now only way is to cut it completely. Damn it. Well, here we go.

Pic of the rotor without that thing sticking in the center?
Steve

Heres few. The cuts end at the crankshaft tip around the hub and go from there to the back edge of the rotor. Havent cut properly in yet cos fearing to hit the crank.