Engine Temperature

Didn't the original KZ racebikes have an oil cooler mounted in the tail section somewhere?

The vetter pridmore bike sure did.

How was the cooler plumbed on the Vetter Pridmore bike? I think that all of that tubing would hold a fair amount of extra oil on the uphill side. That extra capacity could help by itself. Of course we are talkin about race/street here. I bet that the Vetter Pridmore bike would be overheating in stop and go traffic also. In stop and go traffic, the lack of airflow is the central problem. Adding a cooler doesn't really help much if there is no airflow. However, the net amount of heat that you put into the oil will be lowered b/c the oil will be cooler when you are moving. If you are doing the Daytona/Sturgis/Galveston main drag crawl, then your screwed either way.

BTW it would be interesting to see the effect of wrapped vs un-wrapped headers. Those four primarys are dumping a lot of heat right at the fromt of the motor. Go on OMR, throw a wrap on that pretty chrome Kerker, and see what happens. I dare you!

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Naw, I don't think so...

As for air flow on head... My measurements don't lie, the temp was considerably cut with synthetic and oil cooler combination...

Larry, Plumm and I spoke on how the hell this was possible to this level... One thing may be where air flowing into the cooler is being redirected down over the exhaust ports & tubing...


Either case, not wrapping my Kerker... :laugh:

davel wrote:

Here's my heat solution for the 1075 in city traffic. Works really well. The fan is controlled off oil temperature and it moves enough air over the engine to drop engine temp in stop/go traffic. Overheating is not an issue.

The oil cooler is effective but doesn't do much unless you're moving. I've found it more important to keep air moving over the engine. There isn't enough oil circulating through the cooler to keep the engine temp down especially at low RPM

How often does that fan kick on when you're on the open road at normal cruising speeds?

Dave...

Did you happen to measure for pre & post fan "ON" voltage drops at the battery?

@ 3amps DC (36watts)
Just wondering if you upgraded your electrical components, switched to LED for less power consumptions thus more for the fan or had no issues stock setup etc...

Thanks,

OMR

larrycavan wrote:

How often does that fan kick on when you're on the open road at normal cruising speeds?

The fan is controlled by a thermostat in the oil cooler. The set point can be adjusted from 150 - 240 degrees. If it's set over 220, the fan will only turn on when sitting in traffic and the ambient temp is over 80. Once moving the oil temp drops and the fan turns off.

If the fan is set to come on at a lower temperature (150 - 190) it will turn on after about 10-15 minutes of riding and remain on. I haven't found any adverse affects from this. It helps keep the head cool and reduces midrange ping when the engine's up to temp.

OMR,
No upgrade to the electrical and haven't had any problems with battery drain even if the fan is set to be on continuously. For reference, the high beam is listed at 60W so the fan is about half of that. Charging system seems to keep up with no problem.

Well done...

BTW, LUV the potentiometer thermostat control...

Old Man Rock wrote:

Well done...

BTW, LUV the potentiometer thermostat control...

Thanks.

One more thought on temperature control:

I've found that the oil temperature and cylinder head temperature are not directly correlated. Meaning, there are times when the oil is reletively cold and the cylinder head is running hot. This usually happens in stop/go traffic when the ambient temp is cool (60s). The head will be running hot due to no air movement but the engine oil in the crank is still below 200 deg.

So...it might be better to control the fan from a cylinder head temperature sensor...or a handlebar mounted on/off switch :silly:

I think an oil cooler is pretty essential, so long as you have a thermostat, you will be fine. In chicago it can get pretty hot, and traffic can suck sometimes.
here is what I did last year on my 900/1015 re-build:
Earls 10 row 41008ERL Temp-A-Cure Fluid Coolers best price was at summit racing for about $90.
Perma-Cool 1060 Remote Mount Oil Thermostat. This will open at 180, and also never close completly to prevent air build-up, about $40.00
-8An fittings and s/s line to the fitting. The thermostat fitted above the carbs and before the battery box. I dont remeber what i spent on the hose and fittings, not too much though. I think I spent lesst than 175 total, all new parts.
Some folks run the hoses around the outside along the cylinder jugs with the thermostat right at the cylinders...seen that on Godier-Genoud and also Moriwaki stuff. May be that having the hoses feed from the top is less benificial due to low oil pressure, but the oil cooler gets really hot on mine, oil pressure fine, so I know it is all good.
I only had to fabricate a bracket on the tup from angle aluminum, long s/s bolts down the sides. huing it low enough so that the frame did not block airflow, guess the horn might still fit.
links:
www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-1060/
www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-41008ERL/

I think an oil cooler is pretty essential, so long as you have a thermostat, you will be fine. In chicago it can get pretty hot, and traffic can suck sometimes.
here is what I did last year on my 900/1015 re-build:
Earls 10 row 41008ERL Temp-A-Cure Fluid Coolers best price was at summit racing for about $90.
Perma-Cool 1060 Remote Mount Oil Thermostat. This will open at 180, and also never close completly to prevent air build-up, about $40.00
-8An fittings and s/s line to the fitting. The thermostat fitted above the carbs and before the battery box. I dont remeber what i spent on the hose and fittings, not too much though. I think I spent lesst than 175 total, all new parts.
Some folks run the hoses around the outside along the cylinder jugs with the thermostat right at the cylinders...seen that on Godier-Genoud and also Moriwaki stuff. May be that having the hoses feed from the top is less benificial due to low oil pressure, but the oil cooler gets really hot on mine, oil pressure fine, so I know it is all good.
I only had to fabricate a bracket on the tup from angle aluminum, long s/s bolts down the sides. huing it low enough so that the frame did not block airflow, guess the horn might still fit.
links:
www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-1060/
www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-41008ERL/

wierd pix trouble...:S
but then again I never read instructions...
:woohoo: