big block streetability,in all seriousness

arai59 wrote:

Yeah Steve.....Joey's bike is the caca.......heck when I visited with him he offered it to me to ride. I declined for certain reasons but his bike is the stuff. And I have pics too. One thing that makes his bike very special...........no idiot from KZR had anything to do with it.:laugh:

who flowed the head????

Two things... Don't forget you can do a 1260 in a stock 1000 block.

And the absolute best for frame raking is; www.drjohnsmfs.com/

jordan wrote:

arai59 wrote:

keith1 wrote:

arai59 wrote:

PLUMMEN wrote:

around 3 is the most i personally would reccomend for a bike spending any time on the street.thats what im running with 3" over arm

What is scarier than caca is you have the nads to reccomend anything. A total misfit with a Barney Clark giving advise to people who believe your nonsense. Unbelievable. BTW.....that toilet you replaced for me is now backing up everyday. Wanna stick your noggin into it and have a look see ?:laugh:

obviously your so full of shit , your eyes are brown..thats why you get the dirty teabag wash every time ya flush....cmon man, grab a shovel and help yourself...move the double-wide over a few feet and dig a new hole....non-thinking rebels....:laugh: :laugh:

Keith...........I have a new found respect for you.:laugh: Even though you smell like a used dildo.:laugh:

Well keith, depending on which hole u were used in u could be a very smelly dildo, :laugh:

sry, just tryin to get a laugh out of all

no worries, ol greggy is just daydreaming about receiving his next"dirty sanchez"....he just loves that down home flavor......:laugh:

Go Tiehk Go !

jordan wrote:

One more question. I just found a great condition z1 crank for cheap near me. I think i will buy it either way, but which crank would be better for my build. I already have my freshly welded kz1000 crank, but would the 900 crank be worth welding and using as it will wind up faster? I have heard alot of mixed feelings on this, as some believe the larger rotating mass would be better. Any opinions?

i replaced my z1 crank with a MK11 crank. the week point of the kz/z1 cranks is the cam sprocket pin. Kawi recognized this and made the pin a larger diam with the MK11. if u are going big block at the track, this is the strongest crank.it also is a better choice for a starter motor big block. i found that the wood-riff key that holds the stator on,would shear, with my z1 crank. the MK11 and kz have now key, but they have a larger bolt that is torqued to 95ft.lbs. the z1 has a small bolt that is torques to about 16ftlbs.
the MK11 is in between the kz and z1 for weight. the weight is a benefit when launching with a bigger tire.
I also use a Honda starter . it has more power to turn over a big block.
I use 1.5mm over size intakes in my KZ head, with stock xhts. Larry can advise u best on the head and cams. i used .425lift.
Good luck.and have fun.

kzz1p wrote:

larrycavan wrote:

kzz1p wrote:

You should think bigger!

You can run 10's with a 1075 with pistons, cams, 29's and a stock head (other then valve springs)

With a big motor you should be going faster, save it for the track..........

You can run mid 9's all day long with under 1015cc if the motor is done right & chassis is setup properly and it doesn't need anything larger than 31mm carbs

But it's not going to run on the street without race fuel, the valve springs will not live a long life and it would be a total pain in the arse to contend with on a daily basis.

No matter what the approach, the first consideration is how much money can be put into the project. It adds up pretty quickly, much faster than the dream to build it turns into reality.

Then let's not forget there's the small matter of the chassis that needs to be gone through :huh:

We have all seen different things and have different experiences in the motorcycle world.

I am talking about pump gas and a stock chassis(WM6 rear wheel) and valve springs that last for years.

We're on the same page...belive me.

I didn't say 1015cc because it requires porting to get into the 10's, however with porting and bolt in cams, it can run in the high 10's(stock 1015 pistons or high compression). I have seen them with bigger Norris cams run 10:38 and be ridden to work five days a week, for years. And is still being ridden to this day........

I don't doubt it.

Our local Kawasaki shop has built and sold many 1075's with only cams, valve springs, valve job, pistons, carbs and header. Nothing fancy but able to run in the 10's. They use a cam that is close to the ones, Jay does with his 1075 (low lift)street motors.

1075 motors are the most bang for the buck on KZ1000 based projects. Still my favorite motor because it leaves room in the budget for the head work and good carbs.

There are many ways to get the job done, it helps to be open minded. Some of the most redneck looking and sounding stuff, can blow you in the weeds.

I avoid redneck looking stuff like the H1N1 virus...it's generally not safe to ride next to it... laugh:

All I can say, if you build a big block, make sure it will beat small bore motors or you will feel like crap, when everyone laughs at you..........

AMEN to that!

That's precisely where the choices vs the funds make or break the deal.

I wouldn't suggest using a KZ head on a 1428 motor. There's entirely too much work involved in getting the runners sized properly. Go J head with 38.6 intakes and stock size exhaust valves. Get the head working good & keep the cams reasonable.

Forget all that expense and hassle of S.O.B. valve train components and go with Cam Motion Z4 cams with about 1.060" base circle for the over size valve installation.

Then bolt on a nice rack of Keihins.

Anyway....that's what I'd do if I were going that route.

Personally, I like my 1197 motor. It's got all the torque I want and it's spread out good and wide. I take off in second gear all the time with it from traffic lights and there's no need to slip the clutch.

AMEN to that!

That's precisely where the choices vs the funds make or break the deal.

I wouldn't suggest using a KZ head on a 1428 motor. There's entirely too much work involved in getting the runners sized properly. Go J head with 38.6 intakes and stock size exhaust valves. Get the head working good & keep the cams reasonable.

Forget all that expense and hassle of S.O.B. valve train components and go with Cam Motion Z4 cams with about 1.060" base circle for the over size valve installation.

Then bolt on a nice rack of Keihins.

Anyway....that's what I'd do if I were going that route.

Personally, I like my 1197 motor. It's got all the torque I want and it's spread out good and wide. I take off in second gear all the time with it from traffic lights and there's no need to slip the clutch.

I built a 1150 motor on a J motor and there is enough torque that I don't have to slip the clutch. My cams are .420 intake and .410 exhaust, with a ported 84 GPZ head and the bike trans started working like an automatic after the rebuild. At 50mph I down shift to third gear release the clutch and punch it and the engine jumps to 10,000 due to clutch slip (this never happened before the new top end was put on) The bike takes off like a rocket and about 2 seconds later the clutch grabs all the way and the revs drop to about 6500. By this time the telephone poles already look like a picket fence going by. I agree with Larry, don't take the extra risk with the big block when you can accomplish the same results with a reasonable sized motor. I am ecstatic with my 1150 motor (74.5mm bore MTC custom cut pistons). The best part of all is that I am not running an oil cooler and never ran hot. Even in the Chicago stop and go traffic (more sop than go) and the hot summer days.

larrycavan wrote:

kzz1p wrote:

larrycavan wrote:

kzz1p wrote:

You should think bigger!

You can run 10's with a 1075 with pistons, cams, 29's and a stock head (other then valve springs)

With a big motor you should be going faster, save it for the track..........

You can run mid 9's all day long with under 1015cc if the motor is done right & chassis is setup properly and it doesn't need anything larger than 31mm carbs

But it's not going to run on the street without race fuel, the valve springs will not live a long life and it would be a total pain in the arse to contend with on a daily basis.

No matter what the approach, the first consideration is how much money can be put into the project. It adds up pretty quickly, much faster than the dream to build it turns into reality.

Then let's not forget there's the small matter of the chassis that needs to be gone through :huh:

We have all seen different things and have different experiences in the motorcycle world.

I am talking about pump gas and a stock chassis(WM6 rear wheel) and valve springs that last for years.

We're on the same page...belive me.

I didn't say 1015cc because it requires porting to get into the 10's, however with porting and bolt in cams, it can run in the high 10's(stock 1015 pistons or high compression). I have seen them with bigger Norris cams run 10:38 and be ridden to work five days a week, for years. And is still being ridden to this day........

I don't doubt it.

Our local Kawasaki shop has built and sold many 1075's with only cams, valve springs, valve job, pistons, carbs and header. Nothing fancy but able to run in the 10's. They use a cam that is close to the ones, Jay does with his 1075 (low lift)street motors.

1075 motors are the most bang for the buck on KZ1000 based projects. Still my favorite motor because it leaves room in the budget for the head work and good carbs.

There are many ways to get the job done, it helps to be open minded. Some of the most redneck looking and sounding stuff, can blow you in the weeds.

I avoid redneck looking stuff like the H1N1 virus...it's generally not safe to ride next to it... laugh:

All I can say, if you build a big block, make sure it will beat small bore motors or you will feel like crap, when everyone laughs at you..........

AMEN to that!

That's precisely where the choices vs the funds make or break the deal.

I wouldn't suggest using a KZ head on a 1428 motor. There's entirely too much work involved in getting the runners sized properly. Go J head with 38.6 intakes and stock size exhaust valves. Get the head working good & keep the cams reasonable.

Forget all that expense and hassle of S.O.B. valve train components and go with Cam Motion Z4 cams with about 1.060" base circle for the over size valve installation.

Then bolt on a nice rack of Keihins.

Anyway....that's what I'd do if I were going that route.

Personally, I like my 1197 motor. It's got all the torque I want and it's spread out good and wide. I take off in second gear all the time with it from traffic lights and there's no need to slip the clutch.

Larry I'm not disagreeing with you or anybody. Fourms are to think tank, stuff, evryone shares what they know.
They say the more heads the better (I believe it, even if they are, only a hat rack)

I think the 1075 is a great motor, it sits on the border line. On a budget without all the extras, it can still run fast and be dependable. Add some port work and a few other things, you have a good weekend bracket racer.

Over the years most of the common parts have stayed the same. The biggest technology break through, has been in the cylinder head and cylinder head porting. I read an old article on the net, from years ago. It was just before VHR switched to Suzuki. Byron Hines said the best flow he could get out of a Z1 head was 6%. He said that he could get more flow, out of an old CB750 head.

Well, thats changed big time! Now days we have street porting, race porting, J heads, GPZ heads, MTC heads, Ward Heads and everything in between...........Heads are one peice of technology, well worth the money.

It really doesn't matter the size of the motor, it's the age old question of "can you feed it"

Small motors are easy, the stock head can feed most of them, without a problem. The big motors eat more, therefore they require more feeding......It's all about money.

Note- I would bet good money, VHR gets a lot more then 6% flow, from their heads, now days.
(maybe the GS1000 head, looked like it more potential, back then)

kzz1p wrote:
It really doesn't matter the size of the motor, it's the age old question of "can you feed it"

[/quote]

how many times have i said it?

"can't go if it don't flow"

Talking streetable here guys..........sure you can cram anything into that miserable frame.............but will it last ? Not unless you realize it's limits. We have quite the selection of slack jawed hillbilies around these parts pushing and preaching their self appointed wisdom. But the question remains.....which of them have motors with records living up to their claims ? With the exception on one or two.......nobody. You can build a big block all day long.....but to make it streetable (pump gas) is not gonna be worth it. Unless you like the friendship and kudos from some idiot........save your money and build a healthy small block. Take the extra coin and spend it on your family. Or better yet..........buy a building in the middle of nowhere and fill it with your ego.

so youre telling me a stock headand 26s couldbe an issue here? is that what youre saying? cus i just bought a truckload of stock valves really cheap id like to use up! :laugh: