big block streetability,in all seriousness

arai59 wrote:

Talking streetable here guys..........sure you can cram anything into that miserable frame.............but will it last ? Not unless you realize it's limits. We have quite the selection of slack jawed hillbilies around these parts pushing and preaching their self appointed wisdom. But the question remains.....which of them have motors with records living up to their claims ? With the exception on one or two.......nobody. You can build a big block all day long.....but to make it streetable (pump gas) is not gonna be worth it. Unless you like the friendship and kudos from some idiot........save your money and build a healthy small block. Take the extra coin and spend it on your family. Or better yet..........buy a building in the middle of nowhere and fill it with your ego.

I'm thinking....

how many times have i said it?

"can't go if it don't flow"[/quote]

Is that like "don't breed it, if you can't feed it"

kzz1p wrote:

how many times have i said it?

"can't go if it don't flow"

Is that like "don't breed it, if you can't feed it"[/quote]

Obviously you know nothing of the imbreeding in Nebraska. They do love their corn cobs.

For me, it's always been about getting the most performance increase for the least amount of money spent.

Regarding the 6% number from the magazine article about Byron. That's got to be a misprint or a misquote.

6% increase over stock 900 head is 72CFM. You dont' make a lot of power with that. It's not even a J head...

Larry C

otakar wrote:

AMEN to that!

That's precisely where the choices vs the funds make or break the deal.

I wouldn't suggest using a KZ head on a 1428 motor. There's entirely too much work involved in getting the runners sized properly. Go J head with 38.6 intakes and stock size exhaust valves. Get the head working good & keep the cams reasonable.

Forget all that expense and hassle of S.O.B. valve train components and go with Cam Motion Z4 cams with about 1.060" base circle for the over size valve installation.

Then bolt on a nice rack of Keihins.

Anyway....that's what I'd do if I were going that route.

Personally, I like my 1197 motor. It's got all the torque I want and it's spread out good and wide. I take off in second gear all the time with it from traffic lights and there's no need to slip the clutch.

I built a 1150 motor on a J motor and there is enough torque that I don't have to slip the clutch. My cams are .420 intake and .410 exhaust, with a ported 84 GPZ head and the bike trans started working like an automatic after the rebuild. At 50mph I down shift to third gear release the clutch and punch it and the engine jumps to 10,000 due to clutch slip (this never happened before the new top end was put on) The bike takes off like a rocket and about 2 seconds later the clutch grabs all the way and the revs drop to about 6500. By this time the telephone poles already look like a picket fence going by. I agree with Larry, don't take the extra risk with the big block when you can accomplish the same results with a reasonable sized motor. I am ecstatic with my 1150 motor (74.5mm bore MTC custom cut pistons). The best part of all is that I am not running an oil cooler and never ran hot. Even in the Chicago stop and go traffic (more sop than go) and the hot summer days.

I shift my 1015cc .407lift engine down to third gear at 85 or 90 and it takes off like a rocket, just curious would your motor be past the power band if you shifted at that speed?

Nads hit a good point that I hadn't thought of...

Most of the discussions is in the top end builds, yup get that but what about the lower end such as drive gear tooth counts, output/drive shaft, cylinder rods etc...?

Ouch my brain exploded with questions now and it's only 4:37am... too early for that hard thinking... :laugh:

OMR

nads.com wrote:

otakar wrote:

AMEN to that!

That's precisely where the choices vs the funds make or break the deal.

I wouldn't suggest using a KZ head on a 1428 motor. There's entirely too much work involved in getting the runners sized properly. Go J head with 38.6 intakes and stock size exhaust valves. Get the head working good & keep the cams reasonable.

Forget all that expense and hassle of S.O.B. valve train components and go with Cam Motion Z4 cams with about 1.060" base circle for the over size valve installation.

Then bolt on a nice rack of Keihins.

Anyway....that's what I'd do if I were going that route.

Personally, I like my 1197 motor. It's got all the torque I want and it's spread out good and wide. I take off in second gear all the time with it from traffic lights and there's no need to slip the clutch.

I built a 1150 motor on a J motor and there is enough torque that I don't have to slip the clutch. My cams are .420 intake and .410 exhaust, with a ported 84 GPZ head and the bike trans started working like an automatic after the rebuild. At 50mph I down shift to third gear release the clutch and punch it and the engine jumps to 10,000 due to clutch slip (this never happened before the new top end was put on) The bike takes off like a rocket and about 2 seconds later the clutch grabs all the way and the revs drop to about 6500. By this time the telephone poles already look like a picket fence going by. I agree with Larry, don't take the extra risk with the big block when you can accomplish the same results with a reasonable sized motor. I am ecstatic with my 1150 motor (74.5mm bore MTC custom cut pistons). The best part of all is that I am not running an oil cooler and never ran hot. Even in the Chicago stop and go traffic (more sop than go) and the hot summer days.

I shift my 1015cc .407lift engine down to third gear at 85 or 90 and it takes off like a rocket, just curious would your motor be past the power band if you shifted at that speed?

Naddy!

I fully understand what you are saying! Funny how the small motors will do that. Small motors are lighting quick, they require a more skilled rider to do well on them. My opinion is the bigger motors allow for more mistakes. Hold it wide open and tractor way too top speed. On the smaller bikes you better use super glue to sick your butt hole to the seat, it will leave without you. Yes the big bikes will catch up, thats why the small motors must go as far and fast as they can, while they can, and hope to get there first. I guess all you need is an "inch" to win.

Just a little cam and carbs go along ways, in a small motor. Add big cams and you got a buzz saw!

Once again it depends on what you are going to use it for, your riding style and your skill level. Not everyone is looking for something, that will wheelie and burn rubber at the same time.

Dave's got his small bore motor, I'm still waiting to hear, what really happens when he truely turns up the wick on it? I don't know if Davey has that kind of sack or not? His should more then bury the tach, in most gears. You can forget that silly redline, painted on the tach, it's just a decoration...........He should be gone, like a chicken through the corn.

Naddy, what kind of RPM's do you turn with yours?
You said .407" lift, but not the duration? Please IM me the answer........

nads.com wrote:

otakar wrote:

AMEN to that!

That's precisely where the choices vs the funds make or break the deal.

I wouldn't suggest using a KZ head on a 1428 motor. There's entirely too much work involved in getting the runners sized properly. Go J head with 38.6 intakes and stock size exhaust valves. Get the head working good & keep the cams reasonable.

Forget all that expense and hassle of S.O.B. valve train components and go with Cam Motion Z4 cams with about 1.060" base circle for the over size valve installation.

Then bolt on a nice rack of Keihins.

Anyway....that's what I'd do if I were going that route.

Personally, I like my 1197 motor. It's got all the torque I want and it's spread out good and wide. I take off in second gear all the time with it from traffic lights and there's no need to slip the clutch.

I built a 1150 motor on a J motor and there is enough torque that I don't have to slip the clutch. My cams are .420 intake and .410 exhaust, with a ported 84 GPZ head and the bike trans started working like an automatic after the rebuild. At 50mph I down shift to third gear release the clutch and punch it and the engine jumps to 10,000 due to clutch slip (this never happened before the new top end was put on) The bike takes off like a rocket and about 2 seconds later the clutch grabs all the way and the revs drop to about 6500. By this time the telephone poles already look like a picket fence going by. I agree with Larry, don't take the extra risk with the big block when you can accomplish the same results with a reasonable sized motor. I am ecstatic with my 1150 motor (74.5mm bore MTC custom cut pistons). The best part of all is that I am not running an oil cooler and never ran hot. Even in the Chicago stop and go traffic (more sop than go) and the hot summer days.

I shift my 1015cc .407lift engine down to third gear at 85 or 90 and it takes off like a rocket, just curious would your motor be past the power band if you shifted at that speed?

Otakar

quit using the clucth to down shift at those speeds, stomp it and go. The clutch is for starting and stopping!

Whatever happened to Jordan? Is he still out there somewhere? I think, I remember him? It's his bike, did he learn anything from all this foolishness? I wonder what his plan is?

Alright, Jordan! Let's hear from you?????????

Dave.....are you referring to stroker motors ? If so I'm sure our well appointed self assuming pros will chime in soon. Stay tuned.........

Whats funny is these bikes were never desiged as drag bikes.....they were cloned into that. At the end of almost every straightaway is a turn. Lean your stretched big block into the apex and hit the goofy stick.

arai59 wrote:

Dave.....are you referring to stroker motors ? If so I'm sure our well appointed self assuming pros will chime in soon. Stay tuned.........

Whats funny is these bikes were never desiged as drag bikes.....they were cloned into that. At the end of almost every straightaway is a turn. Lean your stretched big block into the apex and hit the goofy stick.

i thought you were the expert here,we're still waiting you to explain engine building 101 to us oh great one! :woohoo: