Overheating help

Silver Tiger wrote:

i have been trying to make the carbs richer then they should be to help. also i don't really get on it hard too much a stay around 4 to 5k rpm im happy with cruzing at 80mph and 5th gear. the bike is gear'd to the point where it will go 100 in 3rd at about 8.5. i did go a little over board with the cams i know :blush:

It's just the age old saying: You have to give up something, to get something. Your motor is built to run twice as many rpm's, then what you are using it for.

It may run warmer with tall gears (lugging it)

What is the elevation where you live? Flat ground or mountainess? Big city or small?(stop and go/ or more freeway)

What is the timing currently set at?

We call the shots while building them, once running, they call the shots. We are just along, to make them happy!

sorry it took me soo long to reply. i was going to class and riding and my baffle fell out on the road lol and had to order another one. I live at almost sea level near the Chesapeake bay. its hilly and flat where i ride.
I been trying to remember what the timing is set too its around 40 degrees as what the manual for the dyna 2000 recommends.
I also do a varying amount of different types of riding i try to get away from the stop and go red light traffic as much as possible but it does happen when i sit in traffic for a long time i turn the motor off.


also i emailed holly twice now no reply about my oil cooler questions i guess im gonna call them monday
I really need to to get a oil cooler my bike is gettign very hot lol

Tiger

Please remember, big bores will run alittle hotter, that is normal. You might try asking LarryC, if the larger valves, cams and carbs can affect motor cooling at lower speeds, due to a slower flow rate.

Sea level is good, for sure!

I'm sorry if I missed it, but did you state what the cam timing is? I guess I am asking, standard, advanced or retarded?

PS- I would use your stock B8ES plug, until you workout your problem.

One more thing:

Nads had talked about the valve springs getting hot?? I would ask Jay about that, He sells a cam that is very close to what you have. He always says, they are good for a street hotrod. Ask him, that might be one more thing to cross off, your list?

thxs for the advice and as far as i know my timing is standard for what the cams were recommended and what the dyna 2000 recommended.(the dyna 2000 i timed right at the 40 degree mark) i had my machinist friend do the cam ajustment to make sure nothing hit each other and every thing was dialed in.

hmm did you ever find where we can get that mounting bracket chief?

im workin on it i never got a direct response from holly kinda sucks

Presuming:
correct sparkplugs (heat range);
no air leak;
compression not too high;
clutch not slipping;
brakes not dragging;
chain lubed and in good condition;
tires properly inflated;
fresh oil of correct viscosity, at proper level;
oil filter okay, not collasped or clogged;
oil pressure okay;
no fuel contamination of oil in crankcase.

Sorry if overlooked, but what are current spark plug readings? Fuel mixture possibly too lean? Float bowl fuel levels correct? Any signs of pre-detonation (pinging)?

Where satisfied carbs are set up correctly (and also matched to air intake and exhaust), and compression isn't too high, and no abnormal drag in drive train, and other above noted components such as oil, etc. are all okay, seems to me by process of elimination to cast suspicion on ignition timing.

Must ask a dumb question -- With existing Dyna 2000, is it possible to verify timing with a strobe-type timing light, to assure alignment of F mark at idle rpm, and also to assure correct operation (movement) of the mechanical advancer (if still fitted with Dyna 2000)?

Mentioning this because the Dyna-S ignition instructions are confusing (to me at least) when saying to use the advance marks instead of the F mark for timing purposes. With Dyna-S, I successfully use the F mark, same as when timing with points.

I realize the Dyna 2000 is a different animal from the Dyna-S, and later model Dyna 2000 even more so with added sophisticated adjustable advance curves. Sorry I'm not more familar with Dyna 2000. But still wondering if adjustment of it in this case might be root of the current overheating problem (as in too much advance).

Good Luck!

You can use a timing light with a Dyna 2000 but it isn't the greatest. :S the Dyna 2000 is designed to set the timing with out the bike running. i know the bike is dead on time. it has brand new rubber intake boots. i just replaced all the wheel bearings, the brakes don't drag at all, i have a chrome ek 530 x ring chain lubed with belray blue label every 400 to 600miles. the spark plugs are the stock heat range and as far as i can tell it is running perfectly tan at all ranges. i just switched to amsoil 20w 50 from amsoil 10w 40 ts running fine with that. i added a whole bunch of rare earth magnets www.thinkgeek.com/geektoys/science/770f/ to the oil filter and one on the oil drain cap to get any metal shavings. other then that there is no drag at all to my bike it coasts great. my clutch is not slipping, and my carbs where brand new from mikuni factory so the floats where pre set and work fine. the carb jetting for my 36mm rs's are 130 for the main(last dyno i ran it was dead on in the highs). 22.5 for pilot (any less and it overheats and is lean any more it bogs) the slides are set 4 down almost maxed (5 is the richest). the accelerator pump is set to turn on almost at 1/4 throttle. the carbs are synced actually from the factory settings they were dead on. the air pilot screw is 3/4 if i remember correctly


I did lose my baffle the other day and i cant tell what kinda exhaust is on my bike its not a vance and hines or mac don't think its a kerker. i ordered a vance and hines baffle because that's what it had before and this one doesn't fit all the way like the last one did. it runs great with no baffle but loud as all crap. with this baffle its restricting air flow and im not getting as much acceleration. hopefully it isnt making my bike hotter with the air restriction. i plan to change my exhaust out soon with a brand new vance and hines with a competition size baffle i have laying around i got before they stopped making them, but i don't want it to blue and i still don't think i have it rich enough i wish there was a dyno around me now they all went out of business.

be sure to check out the action picks of those magnets on that link they are strong as all hell

tachrev wrote:

Don't take this wrong.

Something's not coming together with that combo. You're down at least 15-20 HP from what I would expect from the combo you have.

1075, Web 110 grind, 29 smoothbores, street port cut with stock valves, Yosh pipe. Not fully tuned when this was taken.


Do you have any runs with RPM rather than MPH? What were your A/F readings?

Check your fuel tank vent(fuel cap vent) sounds like you are running lean.Should not have to run such big jetting,ran into same thing on my 1200 with 34mm Mikunie's.Fuel bowels not getting full at all rpm's. cap vent needed cleaned.Good luck.