Trying to Rescue a Late 1970s (1977??) Kawasaki KZ1000

Thanks Kelly, I commit this to memory, which is to say, I'd better write it down!!

"Raymond is Apex Brakes.
Paul is my friend that I build bikes with. He does all of the ordering of parts."

More modest progress on the old girl today. 

Lined up the F 1,4 to the index mark on the crankcase to set, I believe the left hand set of points, to fire cylinders 1 and 4.  I'll use the old fashioned test light method where the light just winks out when the point open.  It's fussy work setting points, but a little patience and the subsequent strobe will show it dead nuts on.

I'll fuss with the points tomorrow mornings.............'til then...........

I haven't fussed the ignition timing yet, as I was preoccupied with final drive sprocket alignment. 

By eye, by string, by straight-edge, and by hope and luck........I think I've got that alignment satisfactory, but not perfect. Toyed with the idea of some type of laser alignment.

No one likes the idea of the engine sprocket coming loose, in a 70 mph sweeper with thick woodlands on each side of the road, and oncoming traffic. So I was meticulous about torquing that nut to 60 ft-lbs, at the high end of the factory spec range.  But my lock washer under the nut is for the stock sprocket where you bend a little nib on the washer into a hole in the sprocket, which to my mind seems to offer little security for the speed, torque, and vibration going into that sprocket.

So please give me an unreserved critique on what I've done.

The JT 17T 530 sprocket has two threaded holes, perhaps for a puller, so I put in two short bolts where the bolt heads bear down on the washer under the main nut.  I suspect 1 bolt would be enough, but I sought balance, and went with 2 bolts.  Both bolts, cleaned and blue loctite applied.  Then folded the washer onto the nut hex faces in two opposite locations.

Do you guys think this is a safe and adequate approach?

Thanks..................

That nut isn't going anywhere !  

sf4t7 wrote:

That nut isn't going anywhere !  

Ambiguous reply........the nut owner or the threaded nut ??
 

The nut would be the threaded hardware.  The owner would be the one with the screw loose.  heehee    
Just kidding !

Scotty
 

sf4t7 wrote:

The nut would be the threaded hardware.  The owner would be the one with the screw loose.  heehee    

Just kidding !

Scotty

 

I admit to at least one screw being loose. Might have a couple over torqued too!!! 

sf4t7 wrote:

The nut would be the threaded hardware.  The owner would be the one with the screw loose.  heehee    

Just kidding !

Scotty


LOL, I sense the lyrics of country music developing............
 

I had the nut come loose once, and the sprocket and chain fell off.  Luckily I was in town and was able to coast home.  No damage.

I had one come loose a few times. The nut was kept in by the chain oiler boss and the sprocket was noisy but that was all. Tightened it to 100FP and went on my way. 
Steve

From 1978  -  2010 while working at a large commercial printing plant. Thanks work!   For 90% of all my hardware, oil seals, bearings, chemicals. 95% pure sulphuric acid, phosphoric powdered acid, shipping supplies, scrap items! Helped me. Maybe thats why they closed? I was in shipping and receiving, last 10 years I ran and ordered items running the receiving dock.For some reason? I always had my run of the plant and inventory! It was a great run!But this stuff! VIBRA-TITE. It is the best stuff! All the dragbike guys wanted it from me! Held a lot of parts together!Stays pliable! Never hardened!  Not like blue or red Loc-tite!The Best! The Tonawanda GM Engine plant used it also.I use it still on my old Shovelhead!Not cheap! But? Get what you pay for!JMO!Marty in Buffalo [

Buckled down to the fussy business of setting the ignition timing with the points.

A friend asked me to charge his lawn tractor battery, so I thought I'd get busy before he wanted his battery back.

Both sets of points gapped at 15 thou on the base circle of the cam.

Then started fiddling until the left points (cyl 1,4) would open and wink out the test light (red arrow).  Then the same for the right hand points (cyl 2,3).

The green arrow is where my test light leads went to the points wires harness.  The blue arrow is just negative battery to the engine ground.

With more than a little patience you can get that light to wink out when the F mark is balls on the crankcase mark.

The vise grips on the battery terminal were present because my lead gator clip didn't bite wide enough.

Do you guys follow up with a strobe check, or is this method sufficient?

Thanks.