TOPIC:

Should have the last of the smalls back from powder coating, this weekend I’m making about a 4 hour round trip to pick up the engine with the early serial number and no oil capacity markings. Hopefully get on more assembly soon. Family first though, I have 3 grandkids playing fall baseball and one of them will be starting football soon also.

Looks like some good progress, Mikaw. The devil's in the details, right!? Looking forward to more pics!

Mike

Your parts are on the way. I hope you will get the package as fast as possible...

Scirocco wrote: Your parts are on the way. I hope you will get the package as fast as possible...

Thank You

Well after a 8 hour round trip, the early 1976 Kz900 engine is in the garage. No oil volume casting on the upper case. Stripped it down to the cases. Very happy. Looks like it was a well loved engine. Clean oil pump screen. Crank and transmission spin incredibly smooth and easy. No stress cracks around the crank bearing locator dowels. Suprised to find 1015 pistons, crank scraper, and oil gate mod. No stripped bolt hole threads or broke off bolts. Tomorrow off to the car wash to clean up enough to box up and off to vapor hone.

How is the best way to remove the cylinder jug studs? Might as well upgrade to APE.

Not a bad looking motor you got your hands on!!!!! All the nice little goodies from that era. The oil pan gate, the splash pan, and the oil cooler fittings. NICE!!!! You know you found a good one when you don't find all those big gobs of that red ATV silicone coating everything inside the motor.

Snap On has a pretty nice stud remover. Thats what I have used in the past to remove the stock studs. First try double nutting the studs and see if they move, if not you will need a stud remover. Try not to use heat on the cases if you can.

Nice score on that motor, Matt! And, I agree with Dr. Gamma - try double nutting the studs first; although I've had mixed results with that in the past. The real way to fly is a stud puller that Dr. shows in his post (K-D Tools makes one that might be a little less expensive than Snap-On). Also, if you have the time, a little Kroil at the base of those studs might help. Those studs can be stubborn. I had one break off back in the day - ended up welding a nut onto the leftover stump which worked out in the end. Good luck!

Mike

I’m assuming optimal would be to grab the stud with that tool close to the case to help eliminate twisting.

Mikaw wrote: I’m assuming optimal would be to grab the stud with that tool close to the case to help eliminate twisting.

Yes, exactly!

Dragbike_Mike wrote:

Mikaw wrote: I’m assuming optimal would be to grab the stud with that tool close to the case to help eliminate twisting.

Yes, exactly!

Thanks, I know it’s a simple thing, but I have never pulled them out. It will make the shipping packaging smaller aslo.

Matt: As has been said, Kroil is your friend here. Soak the studs for several days in it. Every so often while soaking I would shock the studs by striking them with a brass hammer, but not too hard. You are really just trying to help the Kroil work down the stud. Put nuts on top of the studs when you do this so you don't mess the threads up. If you still can't get them out I would turn to a heat gun for help. I would avoid an open flame i.e. torch. This usually works for me in most situations. Only once broke a stud off and had to have it ED'd out, but in hindsight it was my fault for not giving the Kroil time to work and I was using a stud remover from a friend that was pretty well worn. The stud remover slipped as I was putting some leverage on it and then it grabbed and I heard that ugly sound and sudden lack of resistance. I then bought a new one from Snap On and it works great.
Rick H.

All, thank you for the advice. I sent my son, master mechanic at Ford, the picture of the puller Dr. Gamma posted. He replied “what’s that” when I told him he laughed and said “your so old school”. Then he sent me a picture of the new modern version. I’ll let them soak with Kroil till the weekend. I will look later but if I recall I could see the end of the stud from inside the upper case. If so I’ll try to set the case on it’s side and jizz from both ends.