TOPIC:

Kaylinator wrote: Probably need need to find another center stand now to cut down that kick part. Sticks out way far without an exhaust there.

Don't make the same mistake Kawasaki did. The '78 Z1R was the first Kawasaki to come with a 4-1 pipe, exiting on the right side. So they had the bright idea to just cut off the center stand lever and leave a little nub sticking out. Well, it turns out that the thing that makes the center stand work is that the foot lever is offset horizontally from the axis of the stand. You don't lift a 600 pound bike onto the center stand, you put your own weight on the lever and leverage does the work. But when you cut off the lever so that it has no offset from the center line of the stand, you have no leverage. I've never had a bike that's harder to get up on the center stand than my Z1R.

Thank you BCScott. I may end up taking you up on that as I have yet to be able to source some locally. For now, I'm just going to wait until my eBay plugs show up. If they seem fishy, I'll just get a refund, which is the nice thing about eBay and PayPal. As far as the Chinese writing etc, Mikaw, I would expect some packaging differences if they're coming from a different market, but I'll be sure to report back.

For now, I've pivoted a bit. In preparation for my new drive chain showing up, I removed the engine sprocket cover. What a mess in there. Full of gunk and a bunch of old O rings off the old drive chain.




The clutch return spring was also in several pieces. New one is on the way.

The clutch release was very rusty, so I left it overnight in some Metal Rescue. Came out quite well.


I tried removing the damping shield and pad from the engine sprocket cover to clean it really well, but I had 2 screws that were just way too stubborn to release so did what I could.

The right side chain tensioner and castle nut were very rusty, so left them in Metal Rescue overnight also. Can out better than expected. Now looks better than the "good" one on the left side.

I started degreasing the rear wheel while it was off, and things just sorta progressed from there. Long story short, pulled it completely apart today. Degreased and pressure washed everything, followed by a healthy shot of WD-40 to prevent rusting while I wait to put it all back together. Need to pick up some bearing grease tomorrow.

I meant to add, I tried to take the swingarm off, but could not for the life of me get the pivot bolt out. Ended up just grinding off the old chain.

Is there a trick for the swingarm pivot bolt that isn't in the service manual? FSM just says, remove the nut, pull out pivot.

Use a drift punch, being careful not to damage the threads.

It’s froze (rusted) into the center sleeve. I’d really consider pulling it apart to correct it. You can take the grease fitting out and soak the shaft with penitrating fluid. A brass rod driven against the bolt from the nut side would help protect the the threads

Heat is your friend against stubborn bolts. You can always repaint the swing arm.

Beyond the Chinese writing on the box look at the logo. Regardless of origin I’d believe the logo would be consistent. To me not worth the few dollars to risk damage to the bike or worse you. If the ceramic blows out because the crimp is wrong would be bad. Just look them over real well and compare to the artical posted for your reference

Judging from the tooth profiles of the countershaft sprocket, suggest both it and the rear sprocket be replaced along with the new chain.

Removing the shocks & moving the swingarm up & down through a full arc by hand would likely ease removal of the pivot bolt, along with Mikaw's suggestion of penetrant. Don't forget to apply penetrant to the frame bosses where the pivot bolt passes through the frame.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

slmjim+Z1BEBE wrote: Judging from the tooth profiles of the countershaft sprocket, suggest both it and the rear sprocket be replaced along with the new chain.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

That’s a good eye. I didn’t even think to study them. I agree the sprockets really need to be replaced.

I don't even know where to begin...

You have to set the sliders to the static reference first and then you have to do a vaccum fine sync of the carbs.





One special note before you do a vaccum carb sync is to do a sync test on your gauge to verify all clocks showing the same value on one vacuum port.



My gauge readings after a carb sync.

I've already done the static adjustment.
I actually suspect it's a problem with the vacuum sync. I had glanced at it after I shut down, and none of the gauges were pointing at zero except 1. I'll have to look at it quickly tomorrow when I'm at the shop.

In the Z1 White Manual, vacuum balance is spec'd at no more than 0.8 in. (about 3/4 in.) Hg. between any two cylinders. Suspect yours is spec'd about the same.

The gauges in the pic don't show a precise 'zero' point, rather a "range" (the white area between vacuum and pressure) that vaguely serves as 'zero'. Judging by the increments on the dial, that 'zero' range covers a full ~ 2 in. Hg., almost three times the range needed for accurate balancing. Scirocco's recommendation to calibrate all the gauges at once on a common vacuum source will be critical here, because true zero on each gauge is an unknown quantity somewhere within a 2 in. Hg. range.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE