1982 Gpz 750 R1

Thanks - before I had the metal cup on top. Not sure if that caused any issues while it was running for 1-2 minutes. What purpose does the metal cup serve?

Probably to even the pressure through the filter and/or deflect the pressure away from the cover seals.

Just had another "oh shit" moment while putting the Gpz back together.. Snapped off one of the oil cooler line bolts as I was torquing it down. I thought it was a lot of torque but checked two resources and they both said the same - 16 ft/lbs. Kept tightening and it started to slip a little and then "snap". I have had torque wrenches fail on me in the past so not sure if it was the torque wrench or the bolt. Funny thing is I ordered factory bolts. Tried drilling it out and then using an extracter but was getting nowhere. Just put on new pan gasket also!! Will take to local BMW mechanic who I know and see what he can do.

Good thing you stopped. You were going off center.
Steve

Done and done! Local BMW mechanic who has a place close by did it in about 15 minutes. Drilled it out and then used an extractor. Cleaned up threads and filed off top. He was surprised at torque specs for these tiny bolts. I am not using same torque specs again. Will go with same settings as pan.

Everything back together - and now it won't start! It started before I noticed the oil leak but took forever. Once it started it sounded great. Of course it only ran about 5 seconds as the oil was coming out at a fast pace.

Guess I do the usual diagnostics - fuel, spark, etc.

If anyone is still out there, I am having a problem with starting the bike. After many tries and not starting I decided to pull the plug and check the spark. So I hit the starter and it started on basically 3 cylinders. I put the plug back in and it started up again and revved very high on full choke. I pushed the choke back in and it stumbled and died. Tried rest of afternoon and evening to start and no-go. Won't even sound like it wants to start.

Don't want to take the carbs out unless necessary. Any thoughts??

tri650 wrote: If anyone is still out there, I am having a problem with starting the bike. After many tries and not starting I decided to pull the plug and check the spark. So I hit the starter and it started on basically 3 cylinders. I put the plug back in and it started up again and revved very high on full choke. I pushed the choke back in and it stumbled and died. Tried rest of afternoon and evening to start and no-go. Won't even sound like it wants to start.

Don't want to take the carbs out unless necessary. Any thoughts??

correct fitting order? 1-2-4-3

1&4 should be attached to one coil, 2&3 to the other. Swap them around just to check that they are hooked up to the right pick up coils or the rotor isn't 180 off.

That's where I'd start if you know the valves are adjusted and the carbs are reasonably dialed in.

Thanks. I immediately went to the coils. I marked them with a gold marker 1-4 and 2-3 when I took it apart 6 years ago. I have checked to make sure they go to to 1-4 and 2-3 cylinders - meaning left to right when sitting on the bike. Not sure if there is any other way to check to see if I hooked them up wrong.

How would I tell if the rotor is 180 off? I don't remember doing anything with the rotor. Also, I checked the valves when I had the the valve cover off and they were all within limits.

I am thinking that the coils are not the problem given that it did start and sounded strong. It revved very high at full choke and then when I shut down the choke it died - never to start again. This came after it sat overnight. Am i flooding it?

Quickest way to tell is hook the 1-4 coil to 2-3 and vise versa. The proper way to install the the rotor is to have the magnet to the right when 1&4 are tdc. Otherwise you have to change the leads around.

As for the carbs, make sure your pilot screws are about 2 turns out and the idle adjustment is in the middle of it's full travel length. Did you bench balance them?

Thanks. I will try hooking up the coils a different way and see what happens. I will also check the rotor. I checked TDC when I checked the valves.

I did set the pilot screws 2 turns out. I will check the idle adjustment. I did not bench test them other than to test to make sure the slides were moving OK. What should I do to bench test them?

That should be in your manual.
Steve