CSR1000 Project Build

Just when you think you'r almost finished :pinch:
Do you still have the hydraulic clutch?
Eric

So,I found a 2nd hand one from one of the boys at the Z1 OC GB. Should be on its way soon. I also ordered a new set of plates and a new set of springs,just to be sure. Well see what that does.

Congrats David.......
Not with the broken clutch but you just passed 30.000 views :laugh:

Ha! Thats 30,000 people with nothing better to do than read about my incompetent spannering!!!
Talking of which,I got the clutch basket off today with a load of rags and an impact screwdriver thing.It worked a treat (Thanks Leon).
I had a go at filing down the grooves in the tabs on the basket;


Not sure how far to go with it. I dont want to take too much off.Any suggestions?
Nothing to do now except wait for all the ordered bits to arrive.

I think I paid 15 or 17 bucks for a EBC clutch holder tool on Ebay that works great ....... I wouldn't go to much farther on filing those grooves either might be getting too much slop already.

glad the rags and impact worked for you .

you just want to get those grooves smoothed out that's it.

leon

OK,grooves filed down (just enough,I think!) Inner basket replaced, new friction plates,new springs,new push rod,steel plates checked (all good) ,extra steel plate(!!!) discarded,and everything bathed in good qaulity oil.
Still no improvement.
From this, I take it that the clutch itself is fine,the problem is with the hydraulics. Adjusting the dial on the lever from 1 to 4 makes a big difference,so i take this as confirmation.
So now its back to messing around with the spacing of the piston to find the right distance out from the end of the push rod,I suppose.

On top of all this,Number 4 carb has started leaking again.I am losing it with this bike!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just spoken with my local bike shop. He explained that it matters not how far in or out the piston is placed,it will only move a certain distance.He reckoned that I should get the old cable system out and measure how much travel is in it. It could be that,although my master and slave are compatible, they may not move far enough. If this is the case,I would need a larger resevoir to push more liquid to move the piston further out!
Distance of travel on a cable operated 1980s J model 1000cc Kawasaki clutch compared to that of a 1990s ZX hydraulic unit. Oh joy! More research.

i just spent last evening jacking around with a zx7 master and slave on an outboard support on a kz900 trying to get it bled so i could start trimming the pushrod. :blush:
i haven't ever been a fan of hydraulic clutches,and even less now.no way i would have this much time in a cable clutch :sick:
hope you get it worked out quickly.
you got way to nice a bike to not be enjoying it.

keep us posted,

leon

I took my time measuring the distance between the old cable clutch and the new hydraulic one and then grinded off the difference of the rod.
I guess I was lucky because it worked like a charm.
In the beginning I was afraid the travel was too short (shorter than the cable one) but it is enough to function okay.

Eric

Wiers,
so what did you end up for over all length on your pushrod?

leon

From what I remember,Wiers has the earlier,non j-model engine and a different model slave unit.
In an effort to keep what little sanity I have left,I have dug out all the cable clutch parts and am going to return it to standard and try to get it working like that. If that works out,then I can switch over to the hydraulic set up later and hopefully have a better chance of getting it working. I have all the parts but the cable itself is frayed and well worn. Probably stretched as well. I hope itll be ok as I do not want to buy a new cable just for this.

In other news my fuel tap is fucking leaking again (not shutting off the fuel flow when the engine isnt running) and I am desperate with this.