'76 KZ900 (ZRX1200R) Build

So one set of chrome carb tops were in poor shape, pitted. So I decides to PC them a wrinkle/texture black like the engine covers.

So what do you think? Black Crinkle or Chrome tops like the bowls?



Cory

 

I like the black on your bike

Another member on a different forum thinks I should do the same to the bowls as well….thinking about it.

Cory

So been a moment, but traveling quite a bit for work.  We are getting closer to the first start of this bike!

Finished up rebuilding and setting up the VM29-A7's with new air metering blocks, gaskets, O-Rings, and a new main jet tube.  Setup float heights, set base on A/F screws, and added all my new plated components.  Decided to do what everyone seemed to recommend, PC' wrinkle black the bowls with new SS Allens.  They look pretty good, but NOT my best PC job due to the powder being old and clumping not flowing well out of the gun.  Added a quick fuel connector, Pingel filter, yellow vent and fuel lines, and petcock.

Finished re-powdercoating the LH side outer caliper half, then rebuild and install with my customer ordered HEL lines.

Also rear caliper is rebuilt and put together with titanium and stainless hardware and a Greg Couch hanger.  Thanks TONY!

Installing the VM29's with a larger bowls, caused a little interference with my alternator.  So I am spacing out about .125" and reworked the excitation wire connector.  Sorry no pics of the fix....oops

Then I need to measure how much I needed to cut off the throttle cables and order the new cable ends and brass barrel end.

Rework the KZ900 badges by removing the damage to the edges of the letters, reapaint, and cleared.  Don't have pictures of the before or the cleared.

Last items, polishing up and sealing the swing arm and modify the chain guide block to fit the customer application.

Then make up a wire support for the taillight before putting the tail on with some customer made fasteners.

Then machine the center of the alternator shaft with a M4-0.7 threaded center to hold on my custom machined cover.  I still have to plate the gear.

Then check chain clearance which I worked on for a LONG time to thread the 530 needle.....  I have about 1/8" (.125") from chain to tire and chain to frame tube.  Using a DID EXV3 which is a bit narrower than others I checked.  Of course, gold links....

Using nylon spark plug dividers and M4 rivet nuts to make a neat brake line and throttle cable guide for the neck of the frame.

Last touch, the custom Bitubo decals for the shocks that Dennis (Kazman) made for me back in 2016!

That is it for now.....

Cory

Really nice work Cory, this bike is stunning

Woow ! What a bike !

So I have been doing alot of traveling for work and have been collecting a few more items for the completetion of the build.  The one item I want some consensous on is the use of a idler roller for the slack side of the chain.  I am not sure I would need one, but setting up the slack with the sprockets I have in place, I may get some chain slap that would cause the chain to contact the lower frame cross member and possibly the case saver on the trans cover.  So I came up with a custom roller and using a much longer grade 10.9 10mm-1.25 bolt for my lower foot peg bracket, put this together.  I still need to ge a 1.25 pitch SS lock nut, but what do we think?

I know other KZ owners have done similar and I know they are used on some extended swingarm bikes.  I have never owned one with a roller, so I am conflicted.  It is going through the machined footpeg boss that is fully welded and integrated into the downtube, so I am not concerned about strength really, even though it is in single shear.

 
 
 

Let me know your thoughts.

Cory

NakedFun wrote:

So I have been doing alot of traveling for work and have been collecting a few more items for the completetion of the build.  The one item I want some consensous on is the use of a idler roller for the slack side of the chain.  I am not sure I would need one, but setting up the slack with the sprockets I have in place, I may get some chain slap that would cause the chain to contact the lower frame cross member and possibly the case saver on the trans cover.  So I came up with a custom roller and using a much longer grade 10.9 10mm-1.25 bolt for my lower foot peg bracket, put this together.  I still need to ge a 1.25 pitch SS lock nut, but what do we think?

I know other KZ owners have done similar and I know they are used on some extended swingarm bikes.  I have never owned one with a roller, so I am conflicted.  It is going through the machined footpeg boss that is fully welded and integrated into the downtube, so I am not concerned about strength really, even though it is in single shear.



Let me know your thoughts.

Cory

I would advise against the fixed roller.
It will be subject to extreme force from the chain on deceleration etc and will either quickly destroy the roller and likely bend the mounting bolt.
If using a tensioner to control slack ( which you shouldn't really needed on a stock Z frame without an overly extended swingarm) then it should be spring loaded similar to the Monster craftsman one as shown in the pic.
If you do want to protect the lower rail ( which again i have never had any chain contact with on any of my builds with a correctly maintained and tensioned chain ) then you could simply make a nylon chain runner that either clamps around the lower rail or attaches via the lower rear engine mounting bolt..


 
 

Completely agree with Zed ref the "fixed" roller and the sprung option or a "sacrificial guide on the lower tube. However when the bike is suspended with the wheel hanging free (this is as close as the chain will ever get if if you are "airborne" ) and you vigorously manipulate the chain my hand (with it correctly adjusted) does it touch ? under any other circumstance (static sag, you sitting on the bike, hard acceleration etc) the clearance will be greater than with the wheel hanging.