'76 KZ900 (ZRX1200R) Build

Then it came to adding my OG Lockhart oil cooler.  I modified a while ago how it mounted to the bike.  I also wanted a nicer looking method of hosing than barb and rubber.  So I ordered up some Earl's Flexlite braided hose and some fittings.  I used tube to AN adapters on the cooler after surgically removing the nipple barbs.  Routed them how I thought I would like it and viola, oil cooler installed.

Next I had been planning on running a mechanical pressure gauge.  I wanted it visible to the rider with little effort, so I fabricated a custom aluminum mount I polished up, and hand bent a 1/4" SS tube using glass sand from the blast cabinet to keep the inside from narrowing during bending.  Then flared and SS tube nuts added and that is done.

Cory

So then on to retrofitting a Dyna 2000 ignition system.  If you remember a while ago the mounting of the box on my custom electrics plate under the LH side panel, I had mounted the ignition box and run the harness through one of my 16 pin bulkhead connectors.  The history of this build has taken so long, that time, energy and mainly MONEY has caused changes to the plan.  Originally, All I could afford was a Dyna S points replacement system.  When I added the box, I needed a different set of their points.  I got a ZRX/ZX11 set from Perko used, so I called them to order the KZ plate to transfer them to.  DYNA said "No" and that would not work, you need to order the kit.  Not to be deterred, I looked at both the "S" and the ZX/ZRX 'points' and noticed the molded little flats.  So I used a Sharpie and marked on the "S" plate where they sat before I removed them.  Then located the ZX/ZRX points on the plate and marked two new holes that needed to be drilled and tapped once the center flats lined up with the marks from the original.  Ordered a M2-0.5 tap and drilled and tapped the additional two holes in a position where it allowed me some adjustments.  Once installed and connected, routed neatly using some SS clamps, and verified it worked once wiring was completed between it and the box using the test mode/light.

Cory

Next was harness time.....I found that Home Depot started to carry reusable zipties.  So it allowed me to route each circuit exactly where I wanted it and hold it there, but loosen it up to add more wires later.  Once everything was routed, I terminated, flex loomed and fabric taped /  heat-shrinked the harness.  I 'poke yoked" the harness so that nothing can be plugged together incorrectly.  Added a GPS speedo module to feed the custom SpeedHut gauge, and also added the MotoGadget M-Lock passive lock.  So I used the 'hazard' portion of the ignition switch to power the M-Lock module and hid the receiver under the tail lower panel near the tail light.  So now I can use the key as standard, or keep the keys in my pocket and wave my transponder under my tail light to turn the bike on.  Cool tech with key backup.  Added LED bulb and ended up having to add mini-relays to let me use the OEM RH light switch to turn it off due to the built in capacitor of bulb.

Cory

Now, I had to get creative with the controls.  My new electrical system is low current and is controlled by a micro-processor.  So for example, the RH control needed to have a NO E-Stop/Engine Shut off and the KZ stock is NC.  So I got creative and using a Dremel, I figured out where the slide contacts landed when in either of the OFF positions.  I marked them, drilled them with a 1/16 drill bit, and then using 1/16" copper tubing, I crimped the tubes onto the wires and epoxy bonded them into the holes I had drilled.  Need to clearance the top housing and then once cured, I cut them and sanded them flush, leaving three new lower contacts.  I rewired all the other wires with new high temp smaller gauge wire and the RH control was done after cleaning and lubing.

Cory

Now the LH side control was tougher, only because I wanted to integrate a Hazard switch into it instead of the big factory one on the bars.  I needed a micro switch that was DPST or DPDT and found a push button and a toggle.  Ended up with a toggle since I ended up needing a latching switch.  Found the only place that seemed to give me a fighting chance, cut out the internal casting stand for room, and had to trim/bevel the bottom edge of the switch.  Cut the top, non-needed terminals, soldered on the lower two pairs of wires, then trimmed the excess terminals for the most room possible, and finally epoxied the back of the switch and sanded to fit the contour of the bar.

So this is where the bike is while I start on the carbs.

Carbs begin.....I am going to try my hand at Nickel plating the formerly zinced parts that have been cleaned and glass beaded.  Thinking about plating the carb bodies themselves and and having a local chrome shop plate the inner LTD bowls from my VM28SS's.

More to come.....

Cory

Really nice work, bike looks awesome!! a future BOTM candidate I think

So after many hours toiling over these carbs, I came to a bad conclusion.  These are NOT VM28SS's but VM26SS's.....UGH!  Many feel these carbs are not worth rebuilding from a performance perspective.  I bought them from a forum member over 10 years ago, and I believe he did not know that the 1980 KZ1000LTD was using a smaller 26mm carb vs the non-LTD which used the 28mm.  I have triple checked them and I am sure.

So now what do I do?  I have put a lot of energy (money too) into these carbs and this engine.  I know it will not be a fire breather, but with the head, cam, and piston work, I am afraid these carbs are really going to be a bottleneck.  I could just run them and live with the short comings.......

I could try and sell them and get what I get, but then my options are:

- Find a set of VM29 Smoothbores (I could reuse my stacks I had made).
- Go Mikuni BS34's and order different stacks and all the parts for tuning.
- Go Mikuni RS34's and flat slide it without the ability to put stacks on it (I really wanted that look.....)

What say ye?

Cory

Stacks for RS carbs.

kzzone.com/carbs.html

Have you seen what 29 smoothbores are selling for these days?

Well searching on EBay, I have found a couple of VM28 parts carbs that I could steal the slides and bodies from, refurbish them, and mix them with what i have to hopefully have a good set pf VM28SS’s for like $300.

There is also a vendor who has offered a set of VM29 smoothbores that will need to be cleaned up and rebuilt for $600.

Then would be the conversion to BS34’s or I have found a used set of RS34’s for $599.

As far as the stacks, I know those are available, but love the Steel Dragon Performance varient.  Maybe their flat slide model may fit….

Not a good time for me to be spending that much, but I guess I’ll need to eat Ramen…

Cory

Well it is Ramen time….got the VM29 Smoothbores.  Time to start carbs all over again!

Cory

I'm lovin' what you're doin'....

A few post's back you used the phrase: "poke yoke", which is a  Japanese auto manufacturers phrase, pronounced "pow key yow key", which, is translated to mean: " fool proofed".
I spent 30+ years designing, manufacturing and installing automotive assembly machinery, and I recall, being instructed (by a motor manufacturer that will remain nameless) to modify my translation, in my machinery's operator documention, to read: "error proofed"...

Apparently, fools don't like being called fools.

H.

That is great info!  I was not aware of the correct translation and pronunciation.  When I worked in manufacturing for Cummins it was common to find it spelled the way I spelled it in our production literature and handbooks, etc…. I never had the time nor the ambition to research the term, but knew it like many Six Sigma production tools and processes came from Japan.

Cory