'78 KZ1000 makeover

when u get around to it, could u post some more tail lt pics. side view.
i have been looking for a tail lt myself. some guys use a zx12 lt, so i bought 1. i have not found it to be the best fit though. it seems to fit the z1 tail better that the kz. although, in order to get it to look great , i would have to cut out the tails tray, to sink the lt up into the tail, and get it to tuck in nicely. so i have been ignoring the project.

I will say this about the CBR light- to fit the Z1 tail, it must be tilted up a bit, and that makes the mounting studs point at a downward angle. I'll need to make a bracket strong enough to support the light, but still be able to access the mounting bolts. I figured I'd piggyback off of the rear tail mounting bolts. I'll get some more pics for you tomorrow Mark.

Today after work was spent doing the brakes and right front wheel hub on my truck. Since when did GM stop using $20 wheel bearings, and start using $200 "non servicable hub assemblies"??? I mean Jesus Christ, my jaw hit the floor when the parts guy told me how much it was! And with my truck at 66K miles, I didn't expect wheel bearings to start failing quite yet :S So doing that and a brake job sucked up most of my afternoon and evening, and I didn't get a chance to work on my bike

I was looking at the monstrosity of an electrical panel that I need to fit under the left side cover. Man is that thing heavy and big! I wish I could move some of it over to the right side. Then I figured that if I replaced the separate rectifier with a all in one reg/rec unit, I could scratch that from the right side. I wanted to keep the remainder of the electrical mounted on the factory steel panel.....or do I? So I figured to make it bolt up like a stocker, but be lighter, I'll make a quick and dirty replica of the factory main bracket out of carbon fiber, then bolt the starter relay and electrical plug panel to it. I'll do the same for the future r/r, make a carbon panel to bolt it to, and make some aluminum mounts and weld them to the battery tray. Perhaps tomorrow I can get started on that.... I hope!

porchev914 wrote: I will say this about the CBR light- to fit the Z1 tail, it must be tilted up a bit, and that makes the mounting studs point at a downward angle. I'll need to make a bracket strong enough to support the light, but still be able to access the mounting bolts. I figured I'd piggyback off of the rear tail mounting bolts. I'll get some more pics for you tomorrow Mark.

Today after work was spent doing the brakes and right front wheel hub on my truck. Since when did GM stop using $20 wheel bearings, and start using $200 "non servicable hub assemblies"??? I mean Jesus Christ, my jaw hit the floor when the parts guy told me how much it was! And with my truck at 66K miles, I didn't expect wheel bearings to start failing quite yet :S So doing that and a brake job sucked up most of my afternoon and evening, and I didn't get a chance to work on my bike

I was looking at the monstrosity of an electrical panel that I need to fit under the left side cover. Man is that thing heavy and big! I wish I could move some of it over to the right side. Then I figured that if I replaced the separate rectifier with a all in one reg/rec unit, I could scratch that from the right side. I wanted to keep the remainder of the electrical mounted on the factory steel panel.....or do I? So I figured to make it bolt up like a stocker, but be lighter, I'll make a quick and dirty replica of the factory main bracket out of carbon fiber, then bolt the starter relay and electrical plug panel to it. I'll do the same for the future r/r, make a carbon panel to bolt it to, and make some aluminum mounts and weld them to the battery tray. Perhaps tomorrow I can get started on that.... I hope!

i would guess it was right around the time they started all the independent 4x4 front suspension crap,thats why the 69 chevy im building is getting a good ol dana 60 front axle with leaf springs so a cheap old cave man like me can still wrench on it! :laugh:

In my brief time working parts at a Dodge/GMC dealer, I remember having to break the bad news to guys all the time about the hub and bearing assembly. The truth is that they all use them now because they can just slap em in on the assembly line and there is no adjustment necessary. It's all about streamlining the assembly process. They could care less about ease of service these days. That 2000 F150 that I just sold was one of the last to use separate inner and outer wheel bearings. The simplicity of that truck was a big part of what kept me driving it for 10 years. I finally broke down and got a newer truck recently. Mostly for the room, but I'm going to hate it if I ever have to turn a wrench on it.

Not just GM...I had both front bearings go bad on my '03 Dakota at 64,000 miles. Had to replace the entire hub assemblies on that too....no bearing options. Also have been though several hub assemblies on my '99 Blazer. Tried one cheapo hub...had the same one year warranty as the Timken...lasted 14 months / 15,000 miles. I replaced it with a Timken and will use quality hubs from now on.

79MKII wrote: Not just GM...I had both front bearings go bad on my '03 Dakota at 64,000 miles. Had to replace the entire hub assemblies on that too....no bearing options. Also have been though several hub assemblies on my '99 Blazer. Tried one cheapo hub...had the same one year warranty as the Timken...lasted 14 months / 15,000 miles. I replaced it with a Timken and will use quality hubs from now on.

That is not what I wanted to hear, but good to know. I bought the cheapo hub, since it was $60 cheaper than the other option, though I don't think the more expensive hub was a Timkin either :dry: I was thinking about all the little bits and pieces that I needed to get for my bike, and that $60 would cover it nicely I suppose I'll have to step up and buy a good hub in a year or so :pinch:

porchev914 wrote: I will say this about the CBR light- to fit the Z1 tail, it must be tilted up a bit, and that makes the mounting studs point at a downward angle. I'll need to make a bracket strong enough to support the light, but still be able to access the mounting bolts. I figured I'd piggyback off of the rear tail mounting bolts. I'll get some more pics for you tomorrow Mark.

Today after work was spent doing the brakes and right front wheel hub on my truck. Since when did GM stop using $20 wheel bearings, and start using $200 "non servicable hub assemblies"??? I mean Jesus Christ, my jaw hit the floor when the parts guy told me how much it was! And with my truck at 66K miles, I didn't expect wheel bearings to start failing quite yet :S So doing that and a brake job sucked up most of my afternoon and evening, and I didn't get a chance to work on my bike

I was looking at the monstrosity of an electrical panel that I need to fit under the left side cover. Man is that thing heavy and big! I wish I could move some of it over to the right side. Then I figured that if I replaced the separate rectifier with a all in one reg/rec unit, I could scratch that from the right side. I wanted to keep the remainder of the electrical mounted on the factory steel panel.....or do I? So I figured to make it bolt up like a stocker, but be lighter, I'll make a quick and dirty replica of the factory main bracket out of carbon fiber, then bolt the starter relay and electrical plug panel to it. I'll do the same for the future r/r, make a carbon panel to bolt it to, and make some aluminum mounts and weld them to the battery tray. Perhaps tomorrow I can get started on that.... I hope!

I'm guessing it to be about A '05, we seem to see alot of them that year. Could be worse, the 3/4 1 ton bearings are over 300 each, and don't even ask how much OEM is. :blush:

funny u should mention this. i too, had my truck in the shop to track down a front end noise. they said i need 4 rotors and pads + 1 bearing hub. they want $1800 total installed. i guess i'll be doing that myselft then. i got a lot more milage than u did though, i got 65,000 kms on my 08 didge pickup. OH! shit, u guys are talking miles arent u. :sick:

Good call Elf, it is an '05! You're right, I don't wanna know how much a 1T hub would cost :sick: Mark...damn, thats alot of chedder! Figure $400 for the rotors and $120 for the pads, then $200 or there abouts for the hub assembly. Thats $720 in parts! Might as well trade it in on a new truck bud

Damn you guys are scaring me with all the hubs. Maybe I should see if I can buy back my old Ford.

porchev914 wrote: Good call Elf, it is an '05! You're right, I don't wanna know how much a 1T hub would cost :sick: Mark...damn, thats alot of chedder! Figure $400 for the rotors and $120 for the pads, then $200 or there abouts for the hub assembly. Thats $720 in parts! Might as well trade it in on a new truck bud

Yea things tend to be a little more money up hear.
if i do it my self the parts will be around $1000 up here.
a lot of dealers are chargeing $90/hr and up .

Hey Adam,

I'm assuming this is a 4x4? If so, have you thought about a manual hub conversion? Then you would have servicable components?? :dry: :dry:

www.summitracing.com/parts/MMK-95-32721/