A Newbies Adventures in Maintenanceland!

"he said that he had to really keep on the throttle to keep up with us all day..."... Schwing, that's what it's all about mi amigo...

Newer bikes have to hit 6/7Krpm before they'll truly kick in the power band and by that time, you're already done the road ahead of them.... Pisses my riding bud (interceptor) off all the time... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

yeah he told me he has no power whatsoever until 8000, and idles at 3000...I have nearly full power at 3000 and almost at redline at 8000! lol

OK, at long last I am back with at least a couple pics. My cousin came up to check out my new house and brought his 82 cb900c. We went through a couple tanks of gas cruising around southeastern ontario having a great time. His bike as you can tell from the pics is completely original, and in great shape with low kilometers. We traded bikes for a couple hours and I have to say that his scoot is nothing compared to my kaw. I noticed that the bike seems really old fashined for the time too, the handlebar controls look like the ones on all the old 70's kz's, the disc brakes weren't drilled or anything, no fuel light or guage, old school piping on the seat and tank etc. Essentially I think that in 82 the kaw was a way better deal for the money just based on paper, and in terms of performance it really was a no brainer, the bike runs great and starts easily, nothing apparently wrong with the motor, but it's gutless compared to my bike, and it is noticeably heavier and handles like a bus. My cousin even admitted his beloved honda had nothing on my bike. This made me smile My carbs are still not synched and still lean on the needles and mains, but it's a rocket compared to the 10 speed cb.

Anyways, here are a couple pics after all the riding was done before we jumped in the river for a swim. Once he sends me thee pics on his camera I will post a few nice shots by the lake.

Sweeeet, very sweet man!

Alright, so I am back to the grindstone. I plan on continuing what I started last winter and work on this bike to make it perfect. I got an 83 GPz1100 not that long ago that I plan on using a bunch of parts from to make my LTD not so LTD-ish. I also got a set of J sidecovers, tail, ELR seat and a chrome kerker header to replace the rusty ugly MAC header and make my kerker system complete.

I was originally going to build up the GPz motor to be a drag motor, but lately I have noticed that the extra couple horses I freed up last year have caused the transmission to pop out of gear in second, and 4th on my LTD...I figure my bottom end on that bike is telling me something. SO the new plan is ride the original LTD motor that I did up last year somewhat carefully so that it lasts a few more years as is, and take the GPz motor and build it from the bottom up strong and reliable, then when it's done, drop it into my bike and tear the LTD motor apart and make it a 1200cc plus drag motor...All of this will obviously take time, but I have gotten started already

I will be bead blasting the cases of the GPz and polishing them up to be nice and shiny aluminum, and painting me bodywork all black with a green and purple stripe in the ELR stripe locations. Here are a few pics of what I managed to do last night:

Here is the motor as it stands now, notice the rotor


This will look really nice when all polished and shiny:


These next 2 should be in the KZ porn thread...look at the short skirts!



3 of the 4 pistons had damaged skirts, I found one chunk of aluminum in the oilpan, the poor motor was run like that! I guess this means I will need to bore this bike out! I figured I would go to 1135cc's and have the head ported by a pro, Larry and some others in the know keep on saying that a properly ported smaller displacement bike is a good idea, and I want reliability for the longer rides I like to do. The only issue I see is that most of the 1135 kits I see have 17 mm whist pins, is honing them out to 18 mm a common thing, or is it better to find a kit with 18 mm wrist pins?

This GPz motor ran an oil cooler stock, so I will obviously be reusing it:


But I will likely get a nicer looking oil cooler:


One thing I was wanting was a set of rear sets...the GPz cs cover solves that for me:


That rod sticking out near the front is not present on my LTD, here is what it is for:



This setup moves the shifter lever back several inches, and makes it so that all I need to do is thread the footpeg into one of the empty holes in the frame where the aluminum footpeg bracket used to be. those things weigh a ton, and when I get my nice aluminum swingarm on I wont want it covered up anyways. For the brake side I will figure something similarly elegant out.

Now, I always manage to have a question, so here it is:


Here is the bottom of my oilpan, what is that little round doodad there, is that an oil temp sensor or something? Those 2 holes beside where the round guy goes had nothing threaded in them, what are they for?

Anyways, Thanks for reading and viewing!

ITS ALIIIIIVE!! The thread I mean... :laugh:

9am53 wrote:

Here is the motor as it stands now, notice the rotor

:laugh:

The only issue I see is that most of the 1135 kits I see have 17 mm whist pins, is honing them out to 18 mm a common thing, or is it better to find a kit with 18 mm wrist pins?

Don't be honin' nothing you!
Check out Larrys site for more info: CAVANAUGH RACING Click KZ DATA link on left.

Here is the bottom of my oilpan, what is that little round doodad there, is that an oil temp sensor or something? Those 2 holes beside where the round guy goes had nothing threaded in them, what are they for?

I cant seem to find that in any of the parts diagrams I have, but your guess would seem logical. Probly temp sensor.

Cheers!

I looked and I don't know what it's supposed to tell me...

1135 is like nothing, why bother?

Use an 18mm pin kit.

Go with 1170 at least. That way you get nice low-mid end boost form the bigger motor, and once the porting is done it will have awsome highend, with lots of latent power. Beautiful combination.

Just ask J at APE: The KZ Zone

Thinking most likely the oil level switch.

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

TeK9iNe wrote:

1135 is like nothing, why bother?

Use an 18mm pin kit.

Go with 1170 at least. That way you get nice low-mid end boost form the bigger motor, and once the porting is done it will have awsome highend, with lots of latent power. Beautiful combination.

Just ask J at APE: The KZ Zone

The reason I don't want 1170 is because I heard that is kind of pushing it using the stock sleeve, I guess at that bore it's kind of thin...I want reliability as well as power

OK, you guys are all going to laugh at me, I don't get it, last year wasn't this hard by far! I took the clutch apart with the impact gun, and it sure works awesome! I have been trying to remove the counter sprocket but it is on there too. I have heated it up tried it with a ratchet and a long cheater, and finally tried it with the impact gun now that I got sockets. I burnt out the compressor because I was trying it over and over, no dice. I seriously think that the last guy who took this apart used red loctite on EVERTHING! The sprocket is on there differently than on last years bike, or my 550...is there a particular trick to getting this kind of nut off?


Here are my other new bits that will be going on the LTD:




Can I take the top case off and somehow take the tanny out and then remove the sprocket? or is it best to remove it while in the cases...thanks for your patience, this is getting frustrating

9am53 wrote:

...trying to remove the counter sprocket....

....

Are there two separate nuts?

Thinking a separate smaller nut might be used to "lock" against the larger nut.
If so, won't be able to loosen the larger nut until first loosening the smaller "outside" nut.

As last resort, provided replacement nut is available, might consider using Dremel tool to saw through the nut(s) and crack them off the shaft.

Good Fortune!