1966 Kawasaki A1 Samurai restoration project

531blackbanshee wrote: i only use them on my 4" grinder.

make sure to wear gloves tho!


leon

And safety glasses or a face shield. Those little wires are like little arrows when they come loose at 11,000rpm. I have found them stuck in all kinds of interesting places before. Don't want one of those in an eye.

testarossa wrote:

531blackbanshee wrote: i only use them on my 4" grinder.

make sure to wear gloves tho!


leon

And safety glasses or a face shield. Those little wires are like little arrows when they come loose at 11,000rpm. I have found them stuck in all kinds of interesting places before. Don't want one of those in an eye.

soo true,a heavy shirt would be a good idea.

leon

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

KZ250LTD wrote: Depends how many teeth you want/how much you want to pay:





Some are NOS Kawasaki parts, some are aftermarket

Ok, I'm dumb! I didn't even try searching on eBay. According to the parts fiche I keep looking at for my bike, the stock was either 37T, or 39T. If I go to more teeth, I will have slower acceleration, yet a lower rpm at higher speeds right? Or am I backwards?


EDIT: OMG! Look at the $30 shipping on the last one! Do they really get people with that?????


EDIT#2: I think I might go ahead with option #1...it looks like the one on my bike, and is cheaper than the Kawasaki list price (even with the shipping). #2 looks homemade, #3 isn't enough teeth, and #4 isn't for the right bike (at first glance, I would have thought it was though...apparently there are a1-a7 models of the km100).

531blackbanshee wrote:

testarossa wrote:

531blackbanshee wrote: i only use them on my 4" grinder.

make sure to wear gloves tho!


leon

And safety glasses or a face shield. Those little wires are like little arrows when they come loose at 11,000rpm. I have found them stuck in all kinds of interesting places before. Don't want one of those in an eye.

soo true,a heavy shirt would be a good idea.

leon

Ok...sounds like that monster is more than I want to deal with. The simple drill attachment wire wheel is working well enough for me, so I will just stick with that to finish it up.

When you get ready to paint the frame, put a metric bolt on the ground holes(probably a M6 X 1) so you don't have to go back with a tap and remove the paint from those holes. Many a bike rebuilder has been puzzled why the electrics don't work due to paint in the ground places.

The same applies to where the Negative (-) battery cable goes to as it needs to be clean and tight for maximum current flow.

So I've been thinking about all the parts I've taken off this bike, having just about completely disassembled it, and think there is something missing, or maybe that wasn't used way back when. There is a rectifier, but no voltage regulator. Is this something I should add, or does this old stator not put out enough amperage to overcharge the battery? I looked through the parts diagrams for the bike, but only see the rectifier.

I took a good look at the sprockets today. They don't look bad at all, so I will run the ones I have for now. I will have to thoroughly inspect the chain to see if it's salvageable too though.

I was doing a little online research today and found a video of a guy stripping paint with his angle grinder and one of those twisted wire cups. He made it look like it took no time at all. SO I went to Lowe's, picked one up, put it on the grinder and zipped through the rest of the frame stripping! I would say I got the rest of the frame completely stripped in about an hour! I was so excited, I forgot to take a pic of it stripped and shiny before I started to prime it! :woohoo:




And here's a pic of the grinder with the wheel cup thingy on it. Stripping the swingarm, side and center stand should be a breeze with this. I wish I had this all along, as I'd probably be done priming by now! LOL!



EDIT: Advice for those using the wire wheels on angle grinders...HOLD ON TIGHT! I had gloves, and a face shield on. I don't think anything hit the shield (but could have), but I definitely felt bits of debris hitting the gloves. Wear your protective gear! (and thanks to those who reminded me to do so too )

And don't wear any loose clothing or that puppy will bite!

I just went hunting through eBay and added a whole lot of Samurai parts that I either need, or may need to my watch list. Those sellers are probably getting excited! LOL!

I started priming the bottom of the frame and let it dry overnight. Today, I stripped and primed the kick stand and center stand, and also flipped the frame to start coating the rest of it with primer. Also, I was very careful to shove rags in the top and bottom of the neck, and tape them in place to keep the inner bearing races from getting paint on them.

I'm done priming the frame and stands. I should be painting them tomorrow or Monday. The only frame-type parts left will be the swingarm and the battery box. Both of those still need to be stripped, but it should be a breeze with that wire cup dealy-o.