OMR: '76 KZ900 Restoration/Modification

"Do you know if they come in a bar end style"...

Unknown, I obtained these from J&P Cycle...
The majority of there catalog is HD stuff but for mounting hardware, fwd controls, handle bar controls, LED signals/mirrors etc... This can be used on any bike...

The do have a sports bike section as well...

www.jpcycles.com
www.jpcycles.com/Search/Search?N=0&Ne=0&...tt=sportbike&x=0&y=0

OMR

I still cant make out what/who ? is in the mirror?:silly:

Thanks for the link. Still looking, but haven't found any so far. Thinking maybe a tapped bar end adapter may be the ticket, though not sure if it will fit right or not.

Rock if you were to get caught in the rain with those grips and hit a bump, you will end up with a grip in each hand as you smack the tank with your face. Ask me how I know. Had two different bikes with them and never again.

Just an update: Clutch Plates & Springs replaced...

On one of my last rides I noticed the clutch slipped on me when twisting the throttle harder @ 65mph... It slipped a little where no red lining or anything but enough for me to go WTF was that.... Ahhhh, she slipped!

So on to researching clutch plates & spring testing & measurement ranges (Shop Manual) and in speaking with my two mentors who basically stated the exact same regarding Barnett Clutch components vs. OEM (when they seriously speak in technical terms, I listen ) I knew what the game plan was...

Friction Plate Range: .146" (3.7mm) - .154" (3.9mm)
As can be reviewed in one of the images, my plates all measured on the low side of the range @ 3.72mm to 3.76mm.

Steel Plates: In review of the images, the dimples have been worn down some...

Warping:
Friction Spec: <= .006" (.15mm)
Steel Spec: <= .008" (.20mm)

As can be reviewed in the images, I was able to get a .20mm feeler gauge under my friction plates. The steel plates about the same where pending where measuring under the plates as going around them I was able to slip the over spec gauge under them...

Springs: 1.33" (33.8mm) Replace @ 1.27" (32.3mm)
As can be reviewed in the image, springs all measured in the 32.4/5 range...

Over all Measurements & Decision:
Plates and springs where too close to being out of spec, replace all was my decision...

OEM replacements: Jeff @ Z1: Thanks Jeff!
Great price compared to Barnett setup for 8 friction plates, 7 steel plates and 5 springs... I paid total ~ $110 including shipping... For the same Barnett components, ~ $190.... Obviously shopping around you may find the pricing varies...

Don't get me wrong here for as I have learned, Barnett components are good quality stuff but more geared for racing.. The heavy duty springs will wear out an old mans hands on a ride... Thus fatigue! I want to enjoy my rides, not wear my old ass out on a ride...

Measured my new plates & springs... All in the upper range of specifications...

Over night soak of the friction plates in the same oil as my motor has in it... Was going to go synthetic but decided to wait a little longer so no big deal... 20w/50 here for Az heat index...

Learned a little trick from Plummen and Larry C....
Remove the washer off an old spark plug and insert between the spring and original washer.... Or go get some washers of the same thickness... This will add just a little extra pressure to the clutch plate pressure...

NOTE: I did not have to drain all the oil... Just lean her on the kick stand and yes, have a drain pan under neath for you will loose about a 1/4 quart if that....

NOTE: To get the ball bearing out, I used a magnet as depicted in the image vs. leaning the bike over thus more oil lose ...

Install some grease on the ball bearing and pusher stem, new cover gasket... Top off the oil and make my other adjustments at the clutch lever and mechanism in the CC sprocket cover...

All is good! Test drive this early morning when it's still semi cool at 80*F... Been running triple digits with high humidity... Monsoon season for us...

OMR

Big kudos's to Kano (Sweet brother thanks! ) Looky at what I got boys & girls....

I will follow the same theme where leave the lens bezel ring chrome and gloss black shoot & clear coat the bucket...

And yes of course, it will be my favorite (Gregg grinds his teeth :laugh: ) Dupli-color enamel with a 2 part clear coat....

I'll provide a write up/tutorial with images on the process and provide later...

I will wire up one of two ways...
One being that since I went with LED on all my turn signals, brake lights and instrument cluster lights, I have shaved off a whole slew of current load...

With this in mind I should be able to run both lights simultaneously with no problem.

If I do find some issue with running both, then I will wire as such... On low beam control, only one light will be on... On high beam, the other light comes on... Both on low setting ~ 120 watts... No big current demand in this configuration!

OMR

Has anyone used intake springs in thier clutch? Roy

whats their dimensions/specs compared to clutch springs?

Old Man Rock wrote:

Big kudos's to Kano (Sweet brother thanks! ) Looky at what I got boys & girls....

no probs happy to help you out!

Back in the day, using old inner valve springs were the ticket in racing circles to get the clutch to lock up tighter. Basically the same as the HD clutch springs used now. No idea how they measure up in tension to the HD springs but they did the trick. Made for a harder clutch pull obviously, but it's a cheap way to get stiffer clutch springs. Personally, a lock-up clutch is a better way to get this done nowadays but that was the way we did it back then. Using shims on clutch springs is another way to get added tension on springs. You can buy different thicknesses of washers from many places. Look for them in the lock-up or slider clutch section. I know Schnitz Racing has them along with any spped shop dealing in racing clutches. Of course any washer will work as long as they as the same thickness for all springs. You can buy them in various thicknesses to dial in your clutch from those places selling clutch set-ups as mentioned. You can also try different clutch springs out of different bikes to find ones that suit your purpose. I have H-2 springs and lite lock-up clutch springs in my lock-up.

SORRY DAVE, I got carried away! If need be, I will take this out of your thread, let me know........J.R.


Yes I have used them many times in the past. I try to use mainly stock inner valve springs. I wasn't going to give this secret away, oh well it's a freebee.(surprising what us dumb ass's know?)
The clutch pressure is increased at the lever!(not that much) But the slam on the clutch plates is for real. The clutch kinda becomes in or out.

NOTE- I have found three down sides, to these springs.

DOUBLE NOTE- I must say (IMO) so no one gets their butt up in the air.

From a racing stand point:(dropping the clutch hard)

1)Once in a while, you will break a clutch plate.

2)Use a needle bearing clutch pusher "or" you will put the clutch push rod, through the sprocket cover.

3)Increased wear on the area around the crankshaft dowel pins, due to very heavy shock loads.(It just wouldn't be normal for me, without them) And I should add even with HD main studs and support cap.

I think, one time I used normal HD clutch springs. Their are some places like Star Racing, that still sell two different #LBS. (I have always wondered, if their HD set is inner valve springs.)

Will I use them in my current project, HELL YES!

No sweat brother... go for it...