Building a GPZ1150 from a CSR1000

check the psi on the motor befor you turbo it, my 1170 was advertised at 10.25:1 and it makes 180 psi wich is a tad high.

No turbo on this, only 33mmSBs, the 84 head will reduce the compression by about .5 compression points and I run 100 octane leaded aircraft gas with Toluene and Heptane added.:evil:

Post edited by: otakar, at: 2007/10/21 08:52

otakar, u may get lucky and be able to run premium gas just fine. from what im hearing if u get up around 180 psi compresion u start to fight engine ping (pre-egnition). At 10.1:1 you may just nicely get buy.Too soon to tell of coarse, but maybe you could run a little more cam overlap to bring the compression down a tad if u have to latter.i find it a pain to refill all the time when every one i'm riding with still has lots of gas.i'm sure it would be worse if u needed av fuel.i see by your sig that u have lots of kawi's.that must be 1 cool looking stable.

This gun koting process you have mentioned...how much would you charge to do a pair of brake calipers for example? Well that is if you still do it for other people of course..

GunKoteing would depend on the condition of the parts and the color you want. In general between $50-$75 a pair. The colors I have are;
Black, Silver, Tytanium, Stainless, Brass, Bright Gold, Olive, Sand, Red, Dark Blue, Gun Blue, Black Chrome, Clear. I would not recommend clear on calipers because it would require polishing and a completely different price.

otakar wrote:

GunKoteing would depend on the condition of the parts and the color you want. In general between $50-$75 a pair. The colors I have are;
Black, Silver, Tytanium, Stainless, Brass, Bright Gold, Olive, Sand, Red, Dark Blue, Gun Blue, Black Chrome, Clear. I would not recommend clear on calipers because it would require polishing and a completely different price.

I will def be sending you a pm in reguards to this soon man...chances are it will be the calipers from my GPz that i will be getting done since the Hondas already have what appears to be some sort of dark bronze like color to them.

Well---- a couple of updates. One thing I did not realize is that this bike is not equipped with a 3Ohm ignition system, so the coils I installed are not what I thought they would be. Fortunately putting a 3Ohm coil on a 2.2Ohm system only gives a week spark and causes no other damage. I did go out and bought some Dyna 2.2Ohm coils however and will install them today . Also since I want to still ride this bike this year at least once I decided to mount a set of BS34 carbs on it for the time being. With the help of a few of you I have decided on a jetting solution for them. I will start with #135 mains and #40 pilots. I would like to change the Needle jet to a Y-6 but the only way to get one of those is from Kawasaki That is expensive proposition). May be I will just change the Jet Needle and call it a day. I also received my custom clutch cables, so I plan on mounting them today also. With luck I will first fire the bike up next weekend. I will try to post some more pictures today. Oh- I almost forgot to mention, I found another 83-85 head, I think I will save thisone for my 78 Z1-R :evil:

Post edited by: otakar, at: 2007/11/10 09:17

Post edited by: otakar, at: 2007/11/10 09:18

Fynally finished rebuilding my carburetors for the project. I built a set of VM33 SBs and a set of BS34s, which plan on running on the bike before I install the 1166kit with the new 84 head. Here are some pictures

Better Than New

Hey Gunny, nice set of "articles". I forgot all about guncoating. It was the catzass in the '70's. I have a very good Powdercoater with good turnaround time and reasonable prices here in Tomball TX. However, I just don't know about using PC for the finer stuff - carb bodies, calipers and M/C's. Yo have an opinion on this?

ALSO, do you still have the CSR seat? If so, is it for sale to an old jarhead?

There are advantages and disadvantages to both. Gunkote is the best on engine parts because it allows good head dissipation, where powdercoad is not usable. Powdercoat is good on parts where you want to hide flaws. I also use "Polane" in place of powder coat. The result is almost the same as powdercoat but is a paint and extremely durable much more so than any other paint I have ever used and this includes POR-15 which I have lost much confidence in. Polane was designed as a two part polyurethane which is to be used on bare metal. In about three days it is impervious to most all chemicals bar the strongest of paint strippers. It cannot be removed by Acetone Alcohol MEK or Gasoline. We use Polane at work on all Military contracts and it is quite cheep. A stock color Gallon is about $50 and a custom mix color is about twice that. The hardener cost is extra at about $40 a quart. The mix ratio is 6:1 so the quart goes a long way. There are two different hardeners, One indoor and one outdoor. Polane would be a fantastic alternative for engine side-covers or crankcases. Gunkote strictly on parts which might see temperatures much over 150*f. I love Gunkote on any engine top components and ANY brake components. Since Gunkote is impervious to ALL chemicals it can be used inside and out on brake components. The carburetor components are also Gunkoted even though Polane would have been more than adequate.

I do have the CSR seat minus the hardware which I used on the new GPZ seat It is not the original however it is a reupholster (but a decent job)I bought the bike that way. You can see the seat in the early pictures. $50 plus post it's yours. There are no rips tears or scuffs.

Post edited by: otakar, at: 2007/11/18 13:04