Building a GPZ1150 from a CSR1000

Gringo
I Forgot to mention something about Gun-Kote; Once it is on the only way to remove it is by sanding or sand-blasting. There is no paint stripper on Earth which will touch it. This includes soaking it in DOT-3 brake fluid for 6 months.

Thanks alot for the info on this Otto. I googled them and found out this stuff is available in a spray can, a little pricey at $29 a can but I suppose it will go a long way. The upside is that once done it looks like it is almost zero maintainence. How have you been prepping say your engine covers prior to coating them?

If you plan on useing a pigmented coating. I media blast first, than I do a 30 second soaking in a 25%soluttion of Hydrochloric acid. Than wrince with regular water, than quickly with distilled water to prevent corrossion. Blow dry, than wash off with Butyl Alcohol (very important) do not use other alcohols because they will corode the metal immediately and atract moisture. Than I do a cold Pfosphatting treatment with K-Phos. After this I bake for 1 hour at 125*f Than Spray. Now you dry for .5 to 1 Hr at 125f than bake for exactly 45min. at 325f. Do not go past 330f or much over the 45min. because the color may change and clear will yellow. If you plan on doing a polished surface, do NOT polish to a mirror finish, and skip the Phosphating procedure, follow everything els in the same order. The finish is not as durable but still better than no finish at all.

Otto

Post edited by: otakar, at: 2007/09/11 17:02

I like this a lot, look forward to seeing the finished project!

I'm doing something similar with my LTD750...

Post edited by: guitargeek, at: 2007/09/11 15:13

Would one of the moderators be so kind and move this thread to the "PROJECTS" section I somehow screwed up and put it where it do not belong.

Thank You
Otto

Well; I caused a major desaster! Yesterday, I started to paint my gas tank. After the featherfill I smooth sanded the tank and shot it with DP-LF red primer in the morning. At about four o'clock I started to paint the stripes (which I always paint first). Fore some reason, which i just could not place my finger on, the paint just wasent acting right. It was too glossy, it wasent drying right and soforth. At about 2100 hours, I was ready to paint the main color. While mixing it I just realized that I have added "Hi-Solids hardner to the base cote instead of base cote activator. Well that just explained why the other colors wernt performing propperly. Well, this morning I started to sand and wash off my screwup from yesterday. Well, i'ts 1230 hours and I am at the same place I was yesterday at about 1630. What a waste of time and material. As the lovely Dorris Day used to say "Que Sera Sera"

After a lot of extra work I finished the tank, well- almost finished. Here are some pictures and the runn-down. This is the tank with final DP-LF E-poxy primer before the screwup.

Here is another before the mess-up. The DP-LF Epoxy Primer is one of if not thee best primer I know of. It can be used under anything EXCEPT Lacquer.

After the screw-up was fixed, here is the tank with the stripe colors back on (with the right activator this time)


Post edited by: otakar, at: 2007/09/16 10:10

Fore those who are not familiar with Base/Clear formats, the base collor dries low-gloss.

Well we are getting there. About 9 work hours later than I wanted to but still getting there.

On these pictures it is realy noticable how low gloss the paint is.

Post edited by: otakar, at: 2007/09/16 09:59