Building a GPZ1150 from a CSR1000

The Gringo wrote:

Otto I'm curious about what you mean when you say "guncoated" did you use bluing from a gun shop? I've been toying with the idea of trying some chemical blueing on some engine covers to see how it would work out. I'm getting real tired of sanding and polishing aluminium parts and I'm looking for something less labor intensive that will still achieve a nice look.

,
Here are some pictures of a engine which I helped a friend restore and I Gun Koted The parts for him. Cast Aluminum Head and valve covers in Silver, Cast Iron Cylinders in Gloss black, Valve covers in Clear.

Post edited by: otakar, at: 2007/09/30 10:06

he is corect on the two point drop in compression, if the kit was designed for an early z1-kz just take the advertised compression and minus 2 points, if it was designed for an 81-82 J motor 1000/1100 its something like a .5 drop.

are the pistons flat tops or do they have a dome, post some pics.


otakar wrote:

mark1122 wrote:

AWESOME PAINT JOB OTAKAR.You are doing a fabulas job.
Are u sure u will just lose .4 compresion with that head? when u put an 82 j/gpz head on a kz u loose 2 full points.if u are not sure let me know and i'll see if i can find something on it for u .Keep up the great work.

I did some volume measurments on the head and came up with that #. In other words I am not 100% sure. But if you put a J head on a Z1 block the entyre combustion chamber is much larger. Here the combustion diametter is the same only the valves are sunken a little bit more. If you take a look at the piston dome on a erly 1000 and a J 1000 they are completely different. This may account for the large drop in the compression in the Z1 to J mod. But that is only my Calculation and I have been known to be wrong:lol: If you can get exact #s please let me know.

Otto Kudrna

This is a J motor which I want to get the Wisco 1170 kit for. and use the 84 GPZ head on. This is how I detirmened the .4 drop in compression. You say it is .5 I don't think that the .1 will make much difference:laugh:

Otto Kudrna

My new brake calipers. These are from a 96 Voyager, rebuilt and Gun-Koted in Gold. The Caliper bracket is Gun-Koted in Bright Brass.

Starbord side view. The fittings are Moly Coted.


Post edited by: otakar, at: 2007/09/30 22:17

I've always wanted to do this on a bike. PUT A REALLY ABNOXIOUSLY LOUD SET OF HORNS.:evil:

My Andrews coil installation.

Decided to do some head work today. Here is the 84 1100 head which will go on the bike.

Post edited by: otakar, at: 2007/09/30 22:24

Did some cleaning on the prospective 1984 head.


Post edited by: otakar, at: 2007/11/10 09:15

Did some poarting.:evil:

Well, I got my seat propperly mounted finally. That was a job-and-a-half. My intention was to kount the seat with out modifying the frame and to do all the mods to the fseat. This is propably the only GPZ1100 with a hinged seat. It took me all day today to do the job. a lot of cutting sliceing and drilling and I think it is good enough where I wont fall off seat and all at 140MPH. It was too dark to take pictures when I finished so I will post them later. I ordered some POR-15 Engine black for the top end hot section. I was told that it is the best engine paint made. I also bought some black header cote for the pipe. I used POR-15 on my KZ1300 frame and it is fantastic. It takes a long time to dry but it is the next best thing to powder cote, with out having to go threw all of the tedious prep work. It can be applied over rust and all (yes I did remove the rust off of mine though).

Ran into a slight problem finding a Clutch cable short enough to fit the bike. I have bought 5 threw Bike Bandit and they are all too long. Fortunately I talked to Larry at Motion Pro and found out that a Custom cable is only around $35. Since I drasticly lowered the Bars on my KZ1300 also, I will require a custom cable for that too. Larry at Motion Pro was very helpfull and a pleasure to deal with, and informed me that the turnaround for custom cables is very quick.

Otto Kudrna